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Blue Streak/Standard part number is S503 for the 5/8" size.

Re-remind me what all you have. Shoot me a PM or drop by the store during the week. I'm pretty sure I'll take some of it off your hands. Anything you're looking for in trade?

Success!

This car was disassembled years ago, and I'm helping to put it back together. I'm not sure what's there and what's missing. I've never seen a field & load relay, and I'm trying to decide if it's there in the misc parts box, if it's missing, if it's needed or can be bypassed or can be replaced...

I'm working from this diagram: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1976/76VolareA.JPG The relay in question is shown just above the battery. I'm patching up the harness, which is out of the car, so I don't have quite as many clues as I'd like.

I'm helping a friend with some wiring on a 76 Volare, and looking for a pic of a "field & load relay". Anybody have a picture?

With the fully charged battery from the Duster, plus a squirt of starting fluid, it started right up. Thanks for all the help.

I've got the day off, and I'm going to look into it more now.

Alright, I've found and fixed my broken wire. I checked and have spark at the coil. I have spark at the plugs. I have fuel, but still no start. I've run the battery down cranking, so I'll try again tomorrow.

Well, it's definately a broken wire. I swapped coils, and had spark until I moved the wires putting the coil back into the bracket. Then, nothing. Just not sure which wire yet...

Yes, I've got a multimeter, but really, it's just been too rainy the last few days for me to want to work on the car. I've been hoping for some sun/motivation. I remember years ago doing an electronic ignition swap on my old Fury, in the rain, by flashlight. Seems I've gone soft sometime in...

Berlins, I never took the distributor out. There is enough room to re&re the intake with the dist still clamped down. I'm starting to think that the factory coil has packed it in, or I broke a wire while manhandling the coil out of the way.

I actually didn't disconnect any wires. When the previous owner converted the car from Lean Burn, they left the ECU harness rather long. I was able to move the coil up between the valve cover and the diagonal brace, leaving room to drop the iron intake into place. The wiring under the hood of...

Any ideas? My service manual seems fixated on Chrysler Tester # 4166. That and diagnosing Lean Burn issues.

I just did an intake swap on the 318 in my 79 Aspen, now no spark at the coil. (Yes, it did run fine before.) I didn't touch the distributor, and just lifted the coil out of the way. It had been converted from lean burn to the 4 pin module/single ballast before I bought the car. I checked the...

In an effort to err on the side of caution, I've also soldered a ground wire to the sending unit that bolts to the body/floorpan. And a ground wire from the cluster to one of the steering column mounting studs.

I went back and checked the notes I scribbled down when I tested the sender. 78 ohms empty, 11 ohms full. (3-4 ohms was a guess, I should have re-read my old post.) I do get a steady regular pulse from the voltage limiter, but I haven't confirmed 5v output, bad assumption on my part...

My only concern is that both gauges that I tried read exactly the same. I just don't like coincidences. Oh well, I guess there's an aftermarket fuel gauge in my future.

Well, I'm completely stumped. I confirmed my resistance reading on my sending unit. Not dead-on to the spec, but within 3-4 ohms at either end of the scale. No dead spots throughout the range either. I changed gauges, and get exactly the same reading on either one. I got exactly the same...

Yes, I tested the sender, and it measures 78 ohms empty, and 11 ohms full. I also rigged up the sender out of the tank to see how the old gauge read with the sender arm at various points. With the arm at full, the gauge read just under 3/4. With the arm at 3/4 or below, the gauge read just...

I'm 99% sure my gauge is the source of my problems. But before I buy a replacement, is there a way to test the calibration of a factory fuel gauge?

I did this upgrade a while back. Excellent upgrade for small the amount of time/money involved. There's a Bosch relay # 0 332 019 150, that might be a better choice than the one in the diagram. It has a second #87 terminal, rather than the unused #87a terminal. So you can run a wire from...

Sorry, after looking, I think it's the same as a pre-70 door jamb switch. Like a Standard Ignition/ Blue Streak DS173.

I'm almost positive it's the same as the door jamb switch.