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I put the same alternator on mine and the results were the same. The only complaint I have with it is there is no beat for me to tap with my left foot when the headlights and the turn signal is on....

For the washer "T" try: http://www.rtspecialties.net/search.asp?nobox=&scat=&stext=washer&stype=&sprice=&pg=2 Plalstic hold downs: http://www.rtspecialties.net/products.asp?cat=13&pg=5 I had to look, I need both of those items.

Thanks. I just didn't want to get into the job and find out I was missing something....already have done that a million times with the Dart.

When changing over to the Mopar mini/lightweight/Magnum starter, is a started shield required and/or advised? Link http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/bstsh1.html Thanks

I hated those fender mounted indicators. I had them on a 72 Dart. I can't tell you how many times I jammed my fingers on them when washing or waxing the car. I always swore I would take them off if I were to ever get the car painted....sadly..it got totalled.

Geez, I never noticed this. Gonna run out look

18 initial, 34 total in by somewhere around 3k. Bored one day and I kept bumping the timing until the starter began to kick back. Close to 30 initial and 46 total and not a noticeable ping on 91 octane. My compression isn't as high as some of yours though.

Clattering sound and no fuel? Could the fuel pump eccentric come loose? Had that happen in the past, it moves on the cam snout and the cover keeps the eccentric and attaching hardware from going anywhere. Since then, I use locktite...it's a lot of work to rebolt the eccentric. You can remove...

Duh...thanks. I would have never thought of that...at least not until I was scrounging around for another shroud.

Geez, a couple more bolts and I can take the engine and trans out. Thanks for the tips. I thought there might be some magical trick with the headers. One question though, why remove the fan shroud?

Any tips on removing the stock starter on a 67 Dart? The car also has Heddman headers. Please don't tell me I have to unbolt the headers!! They're sealed so well and I probably won't get this lucky a second time. TIA for any tips. I've already considered explosives, a jack hammer, mu brother...

You can get individual boots at NAPA. I change the ends for cylinders 5 ad 7 to 90 degree boots to clear the headers. Also changed whatever cylinder on the distributor cap thats under the wiper motor to 90 degrees also.

Could you have pulled (or partially pulled out) a spark plug wire out of it's socket on the distributor when you were tinkering with the timing?

Electric cars might be ok in places with reasonably priced electricity. Somewhere like California, it might be more expensive than gas in the long run. There was a COSTCO and Walmart in SoCal that had free charging stations....I'm sure they wouldn't mind you parking your car there and charging...

If 60 amps is enough for you, try an alternator out of a 1990 (can go up and down a model years to get one, plus I believe the pickup uses the same alt). Mine fit in with modifying the original brackets but I ended up going with brackets from Magnum HP for a cleaner look. It has an internal...

In the engine compartment. There are 2 connections on the original regulator. Those have to be tied together. You can't Or maybe it shouldn't) have the original regulator in line.

If I understand your question correctly....you wire both of the wires from the original regulator together.

I like my FBO setup. Reasonably priced, setup for your package and can use stock parts if you get stranded. My Dart fires right up even in the cold Idaho winters. I did have a problem with the ignition box, which he quickly replaced. I've had it for 2 years now.

I'm using the 60 amp Toyota alternator. They come from the 88-92 ( I believe) 4Runner. The lat for the 4 cylinder has the pulley while the V6 uses the serpentine belt...at least thats what it looks like when comparing them. I was above to mess with my stock brackets to make them work; I ended up...

You can check the pick up by unplugging it and with a multimeter checking it. I think it's a minimum of 3.75 (not sure on the location of the ".") ohms.

What type/PN relay is used when putting then into the headlight wiring? Thanks

I wired in relays on my 67 Dart. The voltage delivered to the lights was considerably higher (can't remember the numbers) than when originally connected. All you need to do is splice into the wires to the lights, need two relays. Wire the relays to a ground and a hot with the wire that actually...

Thanks for the info. I gave up and put it all back together. I'll save the info for when I undoubtedly will get the bug to bypass the ammeter and replace a couple of dash bulbs. I was trying to pry it open.

First, let me say I hope the dirty rotten *&(^%#$#$ that figured out how they'd put the instrument panel in died a long and horrible death!! With that out of the way....my question is how do you remove the wiring from the metal clip above the speedometer? I don't want to yank on 40 year old...

Anyone have a part number and/or location to get a vr for a 67 Dart that is rated to handle a 60 amp alternator? Thanks