Search results for query: *

Anyone?

Hello, Installing the trim and door seals, I removed them all 5-6 years ago, I think I got it in correctly, not sure though, How does it look? What do you do with the extra seal on each end? Think I need to get the trim moved out for a tighter seal on the window as it is barely touching...

5X3 @autoxcuda ?!?!?! That looks huge! I think I'll make some measurements and trim back slowly. I don't want to cut too much off. Thanks for the input guys, I'll keep you updated.

275/35/18 is 25.6" tall. Don't have to turn the wheel too far before it hits. I was told this would happen and need to modify it. I don't mind cutting and welding, but a little concerned about doing it where it will show, don't want to learn by doing it wrong.

I'll try that. Actually have to see if I have any braces. Thanks!

Hi, I have an RMS suspension and 275's up front on my '67 Barracuda. I need to make some clearance for the tire in the front of the wheel well as it touches the bottom of the fender when turning. I'm sure there is a good way to do this, could anyone share some methods? In the picture, I think...

Yea, there's not a whole lot of surface area where my rear angle is welded to the trunk floor. I'll add a washer like you said. I couldn't take the tips where they were. They would have fit with the old valance as they weren't even in the notch. Tough to tell but where they are now I can get...

Forgot the Pics: Mat, I have some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, I'll get to the trunk floor sometime. Thanks for the input, I appreciate any suggestions that you see.

I've already crossed the trans member and single strap bridges Custom built trans crossmember to hold the TR6060 Took some angle iron to build some mounts, got some 80's chevy blazer tank straps and bent them to fit Trimmed and bent the tank lip Put the tailpipe in the vice Cut and tacked...

Thanks, was thinking about heat, didn't even consider the rattling yet.

Made a new thread in the fuel section asking the following: My 3" tailpipes and gas tanks are competing to occupy some of the same space, I might have enough room if I bend the seam on the gas tank over, not sure if this would cause any issue with the weld and cause a leak? I know it'll damage...

I have a TTI 3" exhausts with their tips. Hangers are welded to the tailpipe with a similar rubber mount as stock. Most pics I'm finding from google are similar gap to mine except for: The ModCuda Page! '69 Plymouth Barracuda with Mod Interior

Well, got it trimmed down, held on with a couple screws at the moment. Wanted to get exhaust on to see how everything looked before welding just in case Of course, not real happy with the location of the tips in the valance. I think the only real option is to modify the tailpipes and move them...

I'll try cutting it between the ribs. I'm not gonna attempt the butt weld. Thanks!

So cut the new valance between the ribs? Then just the bottom rib would be overlapped

Looks good Mat! So, got the self tappers out, ran some in above the ribs, now my question is: I want it to look correct, If I run more screws in above the ribs then weld that seam, the old ribs underneath are acting like a fulcrum and kinda mess with the pan where it connects with the quarter...

Built a patch for the trunk floor from the unused part of the AMD valance Getting new valance lined up. I was thinking of notching the top corners out to fit better, then drill holes and plug weld onto the quarter panel like it was factory

Got some work done today: Cut rear valance off and welded up the spot welds I cut out last week. You can see that at somepoint this car was hit or I think backed into a tree stump or well casing and damaged the rear valance, framerail connector and trunk floor. Old valance was patched up...

I'll give it shot! Or wait to watch you. I'm following your thread now. If I get out to work on it this week I'll see what I can do. Thanks!

So, cut the old off where you did. Then cut the new for 1/2" overlap? I can drill for spot welds, or weld the entire seam?

That helps guys. I have a full AMD panel. I think i'll cut it down lower where you guys did. I do not want to mess with cutting out and reinstalling the headlight buckets. Moparmat you have a huge project going on! I wouldn't be able to keep focus on that amount of metal work. I found my car...

Hello, I need to change my rear valance for 2 reasons: 1) Dual exhaust cutouts 2) There was some damage that has been fixed before I bought it, but it would look better to have new metal. The new valance came with purchase of the car, I need to get the exhaust finished up, TTI states start...

wow, thats alot of reading! And info! Thanks Steve

I bought an AAR bolt on 2 years ago, the painter still has it so I have not had it on yet. The steel hood I have with a 6 pack scoop bolted on is a "lift off" due to the hinge mounts rusted out. I use this as a lift off, it weighs 65 lbs compared to the 15 lbs of the fiberglass. I can put it on...

thanks, I'll give the chrome paint a shot!

Hi, I decided it was time that I wired up the relays for the headlights. I got a little distracted with the turn signals and have a few questions. First off, I didn't realize how dirty the lenses were, got some polish and now they look pretty good. As far as the assemblies themselves...

i got an AAR hood too, but i don't have it on yet...

it looks very good, i want to see the whole car that color

sorry, its a little too much effort to take the scoop off. and once i get the fiberglass hood on the scoop won't come off anymore

a nut? i thought mine had some spring type of clip on the end of it that you needed a screw driver to pry it off with. That was 3 years ago though.