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i didnt use anything from schumacher to swap in my b block into a 74 dart, you can cut the factory spool mounts and move them back 1" and that takes care of that . i also used a set of ebody headers and cut the tubes and rewelded them to clear . the trouble with using the e body headers is...

something you might want to do is weld in a baffle on the back side of the sump to control oil slosh on acceleration. here is a factory type:

i think you should use the smaller cam, but how are you going to get the compression up 7 tenths of a point , i dont see how you can do this easily. even head milling and the shim gasket might get you an lncrease of only .5 i believe.

the biggest hassles in the swap to bb is the headers, the engine to radiator clearance and the power brake booster and or blower fan to valve cover clearance. this can all be overcome but it does cost money. then there is the motor mount issue too.

without going into the block and spending alot of money, i would pull the heads, and mill them around .050 and do a mild port and valve grind and put it back together with a steel head gasket. this should boost compressio by 4/10ths of a point.

your pistons are probably down .150 in the bores , mine were lower than that, be careful with cam slection with the low compression, you definately need new lifters with a new or used cam change. your heads will probably come out to be 88 ccs. if you can afford to , pull the heads and...

that dipstick thats on there is for the motorhome which probably had a small hood and the stick needed to be extra long to be able to be reached. The aftermarket sticks are just like the car big block engines sticks and it will mount midway along side the engine and bolt to an engine to...

thanks, i can see it well enuff and im good to go with mine.

does anyone have a photo of the correct rocker arm scrub pattern of their valve tip. i know it was discussed not long ago but i cant find the thread. im ready now to work on rocker geomerty. thanks

i dont have any threads showing on the pushrod side of the arm and i have yet to check to see how the rocker pad (these are crane iron rockers without the roller tip) touches the valve thru its full movement . when i did this a few years ago i had a pair of heads milled .055 but i used...

hi fellas, im trying to get a set of adjustable rocker arms set up on a 383. ive got some heads that have been milled .060 and when i put it all together the rocker adjuster screws dont have any threads showing . i think ive seen posts that say there should be at least 2 threads showing...

a keith black hypereutectic # kb400 will put you where you want to be.

you might want to put front end on jacks , remove the torsion bars or at least loosen them and slide them back a ways . this gives a lot more room in there.