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It looks the the U joint would have to be welded on to work. But it would most likely hit your exhaust manifold. And getting it to slide onto the steering box would be a pain when its welded to the column.

There are two different boxes.... The both bolt in and physically fit. But there are two different output shaft diameters, typically know as "small" and "large" sector. I think the small sector was 1972 and older. The larger one appeared in 1973.

Don't you have a spool? It's likely that the locked rear axle is "pushing" the front end while trying to make a tight turn. Been there, done that, won't do it again.

I ended up using a propane torch and burning out the 45+ years of oil and grease on the pinch welds. I stitch welded those up and added the reinforcement plates on. I did it all outside the car, but it can be done while still installed.

What do the ESPO springs cost? I need a set pretty bad.

Your correct. The B and E brakes use different backing plates to match the axle offset and wider drums. But it's best to verify. These parts have been around along time and could have redrilled or mismatched parts.

You also need to verify that you have E body brake assemblies. They have a little more offset then A body drums. Your axles need to match the brake assemblies and that will ultimately determine overall axle width.

Have the e body axle narrowed. I did it a couple years ago, cost $200 for them to narrow it, and check the diff over and remove the thrust button. I bought new Dr Diff axles with sealed bearings and didn't need the thrust button.

I've got a good rust free and damage free k member here in Oklahoma City if you ever come up this way @HellCuda. Came from a 318 1971 dart. But it appears to have a slant 6 mounts on it also! It's wierd and I already had slant to v8 brackets so I reused my original K member. This one is in the...

Do a search on Google for fender roller rental. Friend of mine owns one and it's a nice tool to have access to.

Slant 6 swap. NOT a super 6 either. A 1 barrel 225 with a decent tire and a sure grip. You won't ever have a traction issue.

Could easily be welded without pulling the axle. Loosen the u bolts, reposition the axle and perch if needed. Snug up the bolts and wire wheel it then weld that baby up. I'm sure an exhaust shop would do it cheap if you don't have a welder. Check the opposite side for issues and might be a good...

Get the 1.03 bars. They're WAY cheaper and mostly everyone recommends them. I have them on my dart with a cast iron headed 360 and it rides great. Much firmer compared to the stock slant 6 bars but it's not harsh by any means.

My remanufactured box was junk. My original box was leaking badly so I replaced it. The reman box didn't leak as bad but it was really sloppy. Way worse than my old original. I ended up sending it in to firm feel and having them rebuild it.

Which kit are you using? I used the US car tool kit and it was pretty simple.

Make sure your lower control arm pivot is loose. Set the height where you want it. Then tighten the control arm pivot with the car on the ground. The bushings could possibly be holding it up. Also roll the car a few feet forward to settle the suspension between adjustments.

I welded up the seams and brackets on my k member. It's surprising how crappy they are from the factory. I spent a couple hours cleaning, welding and painting it. Also boxed up the lower control arms. I did a complete suspension rebuild and a v8 swap so I'm not sure how much of a difference just...

Lower control arm reinforcement plates are a good idea. An exhaust shop would probably weld them on for cheap if you don't have a welder. A bunch of my front end clunking noise was coming from the lower control arm. And the rest was the lower control arm bushings, they were toast.

I rebuilt mine suspension when I did my V8 swap. Used hellwig sway bar, PST 1.03 bars, QA1 upper arms, firm feel steering box, and stock lower bushings and reinforced control arms. Made a pretty big difference. I'm very happy with it but its not a serious corner carving ride, I have a BMW for that.

I beat the crap out of my old bars to remove them. I upgraded from slant 6 bars to 1.03" and didn't want to save the old ones. But the new ones slid right in by hand with a light coat of grease.

Be careful not to twist the column by accident. I leaned on it and twisted it when I was doing my wiper pivot seals. It popped out of park and the car started rolling backwards!

Drop the k member. It's so simple. My 7 year old daughter worked the jack while I guided the k member out and in with the box attached. I used a cheap harbor freight engine support bar and un bolted the idler and Pitman arms, sway bar, steering column and removed the torsion bars. I left the...

I tried to rebuild a (working) box on my friends '85 GMC back in high school. We pulled it apart and little ball bearings went everywhere. We tried to fix it all weekend and couldn't ever get it to work correctly. We came clean and fessed up to his parents and they had to buy a new box so he...

Don't get one from the parts store. They are junk. I bought the last one in oreillys system. It leaked worse then the 45+ year old original box. I returned it and bought one from rock auto. I think it was A1 cardone brand or something. It had a bunch of slop in it that couldn't be adjusted out...

I ended up sliding a sawzall blade between the hanger and spring and just cutting the bolts. Then pressed the bushing out of the spring and replaced it.

Shipping wasn't too bad. I used a big "milk bone" dog treat box to ship mine to firm feel. Cost like $60 If I remember correctly. I replaced my old box with a remanufactured A1 cardone box and it was absolutely awful. It had more slack in it that my Original box only good thing about it was it...

I do have a drone. I've gotten pretty good at chasing the dog and kids around the house. But I would need about 50 more drones to carry the weight. So that isn't very cost efficient. :lol: I'll try to get a flat rate box if they're big enough. If not, I do have a large milk bone box. I'm sure...

I've shipped via greyhound, it's a great way to ship stuff. And I pass the OKC station everyday on the way into work. But I've always had to go and pick my stuff up at the station. I think in this case I need it to go directly to firm feel.

I'm looking at shipping my power steering gearbox to firm feel when I get back home. I have the original box and the awful rebuilt unit from rock auto. Firm feel offered to buy my extra steering box and accept my core. After checking around, shipping seems to be pretty high. What's the...

Just for a future reference here incase that somebody has the same issue I did.... I spent all week installing the US car tool spring relocation kit, New bushings, 8 3/4 axle and repro 15" rallye wheels on my 70 dart. I had recently replaced the shocks on the car with the original 7 1/4 while I...