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Minor point...but most aluminum heads are cast. Say Iron vs Aluminum.

It's not at the wheel, it's still flywheel but it's with all accessories and factory exhaust.

In '71 they listed both gross and net ratings, in '72 they dropped the gross rating and only listed net.

1971 318 was 230 hp.

Verify dimensions...not all manufacturers build to the same standards.

If it's a '68 318, have the bores sonic checked. Might be one of those really thick ones that can be bored to 340 size.

Makes sense. Chevy tends to use cheaper materials and wall thicknesses, usually just barely on the safe side of what's needed for an application. Chrysler was always over-engineering driveline parts, especially in the '50s and '60s. If you want to see something even more over-engineered than...

Turbo cams are pretty mild and driveable, could easily just build the shortblock for boost and drive it as an N/A engine. Won't make power like an N/A build of course, but will run and drive just fine.

The great thing about that simple type of build is you can just drive the car with the N/A engine until you're ready to turbo it. Just get pistons that can handle boost.

Do an E85 blow-thru carb single turbo setup on a 360, very driveable on the street and plenty quick.

I suggested the running 318 because he wants a budget daily driver. 318's are cheap and easy to find, will work with the 7 1/4 rear (for awhile), won't be too much car for a beginner.

IMO best swap for a beginner is find a 318/904 that's runs good and use the Schumacher adapter mounts.

I'll be generous and guess 6.

I'll say 432 peak hp.

They care about their reputation and want to create the best product they can. Rare nowadays...

I think it's a box of what he has available to him.

Either one will be fun and fast, but the extra stroke of the 360 will do a better job of getting the car moving before boost comes on.

They're lighter than forged as well.

Every Chevy guy I know has huge respect for the 340 - because they know. This guy had to be some wannabe that loves to hear himself talk.

Ok? All I said was you're comparing your hp as calculated from drag strip times (which gives you rear wheel hp, after drivetrain losses) with their flywheel dyno hp (which doesn't and will be higher). Bulletin book is using physics to calculate actual wheel hp...you get similar results using...

They were measuring flywheel hp in that article, and you're calculating wheel hp which is lower because of drivetrain losses.

Hell in that case go for it...thought you were in the US.

AMC 401 is a great engine, but you're better off letting an AMC guy buy that and find a 360.

Dealer repair - there might be a sleeve as well.

Real consistent, I bet it runs great.

You can't just stick slightly bigger street radials on and expect it to hook up with decent power. There's stock suspension tweaks that make a huge difference. (fixed the quotes for ya)

I asked why 325 hp is his goal, pointless to explain if he wants to limit himself. As for a 325 hp goal, it's really simple. Good performance valve job, mild porting, headers, stock 340 cam, electronic ignition, performer RPM, any good working 4 barrel carb but for best mileage find a...

400 can be done with hp manifolds and the stock 9-1 pistons. It's all in the valve job and mild porting, cam choice, tuning. Smart choices will get it done, don't need to throw much money at it. edit: After reading OP's request again he's definitely running headers, so moot point on the...

Just curious, why is 325 hp the goal?