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unless the Pt is a real POS don't do any redneck paint jobs, around my area 05 PT's are still selling for $5000+ you will make the potential to sell later none existent unlike your car someone would buy it if it is flat black. do a good job and go with a shinny color

there mostly foam and ALUMINUM though, foam on metal is a really bad idea, foam holds water and will rot metal inside of a few years

pretty well all colors mixed these days aren't correct to a T, the painter will be able to take care of that though

I quoted the previous guy, those are his pictures; and yes I work in an autobody shop, if we turned stuff out with a 3/16" gap at the top of the panel and an 1/8" at the bottom how long do you figure before everyone I work with would have to look for another job? going crazy and welding is one...

your right people care, at our shop we will spend hours on pannel alignment before paint to ensure it doesn't look like crap after a nice coat of paint. whats the sense in spending 100 hours getting the body straight if none of them have good gaps? sometimes you have to reem the holes for more...

thats the easiest one to work on yet, take out a few sockets unbolt the doors and trunk lid and call the junkyard! I wouldn't fix that heap; and I'm from canada, where cars will rust right in front of you

to pull a car thats bent but not rusty isn't bad, but you get a bent up rusty car and you have a nightmare, nothing pulls properly, and when you get done all you have is more work for rust repair, post pictures so we can see but it sounds like its too far gone

if you have your car ready to shoot probably $1500-$2000 but most shops will provide no guarantee on the work if something happens to the paint because they didn't do the body work shops around here won't do just half the job, all or nothing; be careful and ask the shop before you do too much...

base clear should be cut and buffed before a week is up or you'll have fun doing it. older paint used to have to cure more, clear base doesn't

you could probably find one on a chebby :D

exactly the proper stuff is cheaper then most of the replacement stuff you'll find and its paintable quicker

roofing tar does not completly dry and its not for a nice car, more for sealing up the floor on a $100 junker to get you by the correct stuff is only $10 a tube and it will seal all you need to do if its just the inside, just don't seal over bare metal with anything you use or it won't stick good

I would be careful about it but taking an ice pick to it is a good way to have your head beat in, if someone came here to my yard and started beating on my car for sale you can guarantee he wouldn't leave in his own car!

yes there are both gas and gasless mig welders; gas is by far the best; and easiest to learn on

as what? tig welding? yes there is its the best. also don't butt weld metal together it won't be strong and will break eventually like oldmanmopar said

hope you didn't try and weld the whole seam, that would be enough to warp any pannel, also butt welding is weaker for body pannels since you end up grinding down good metal to get flat I pefer lap welding by putting new pannel under old and welding. end up with less fill and straighter

sounds if there that bad they won't take long to rust, even though your out west I'm sure the rust gremlin will get it quick

a sheet of 18 Gauge metal isn't very expensive, don't cheap out; in the case of an accident the insurance would frown upon it

haven't got the old girl on the road for this year yet, lots of other things on the go but hope to make the bridgewater show this year with it

the only thing I can tell you is the center of the scoop will sit only in the middle of the hood (hoodscoop notched for it) , I have one actually, measure then drill; I've drilled 3 hoods for them and haven't messed up yet sit it on and see were it looks best

follow his advise, never had much luck with a sliding or power sliding antenna and bending it

sorry read the EPDM wrong; it is just primer I though it was another product that they used back in the day

basically its a rubberized coating that acid won't harm. don't powder coat it, simply paint it or leave it natual

I wouldn't, my thoughts are those are for undercoating only. why not just use a paint gun?

there is a pinstriping removal wheel you can buy for a drill that costs about $10 and will save you hours of pain, it won't harm paint if your careful

its easy to break a windshield if you don't know how to do it, pay the glass guy the $100 and have them both installed, simple then its gurenteed and if it leaks they have to fix it!

if your car has a rubber that holds the windshield and rear window in do not use urethane! rope it in

trucks on the powerblock show used it on second chance silverado

my napa can't mix paint to save there lifes, I use carquest forget the namebrand but at least for touch up work you can't tell after its done and its all buffed

if your working on the underside (floors and subframe) a wire wheel and some elbow grease will work, if you mean wire wheel painted surfaces.... NO!! don't do that, sand it down if theres more then one layer of paint, but don't sand it until you can primer it because you will create a whole...