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Here is how I fixed my own wiring harness fire: Under dash electrical fire You can do it!

I went through 3 rebuilt alternators before I got one that worked. Good luck!

Yeah!!! I got the newly rebuilt alternator and it works!!! I spent the day cleaning and prepping the car for this Saturday’s car show. We will put the ‘65 and ‘67 convertible in the show this year.

I got both rebuilt alternators. Both were DOA!!! The first one put out nothing and the second one would not even spin! I found two old double pulley alternators in the basement and the first one I tried worked normally. What a PITA expecting the rebuilt alternators to work right out of the...

After replacing the voltage regulator, the voltage still hits 18 when revved. No one around here can test alternators not in a running car, so I ordered two (one spare) to replace the one I have. We’ll see as soon as one of them gets here.

Yes, but it had three months to dry out. It was completely dry when I ripped it all apart. I did not put the headlight or ignition switches in with it (nor the gauge cluster).

Oh, the good news is now I have working gas and temperature gauges and a speedometer (need new drive gear to correct for the 4.10 gears). I eliminated the amp gauge, but didn’t install a voltage gauge yet. No more guessing if I have any fuel left in the tank!!!

Update: I finish reinstalling the repaired harness and added a 60A breaker at the firewall feed. I ran the car for about an hour and it smelled like someone was cooking something somewhere. No smoke thank goodness! I felt the repaired harness and it was cool as a cucumber. Checked the...

Here is the repaired harness. I installed it yesterday, but before I start the engine again, I will add a fusible link and track down a few incomplete circuits. Things like the gas/temperature gauges, cigarette lighter and dome lights have never worked, so I’m trying to get them working now.

The harness I have is not the original one, as it was (poorly) modified by the car restorer. It was easier to repair it than replace it.

Hello John. OCDart’s link is cheaper than the Amazon price that I used. Get the splice pieces too. I got 100 pieces for $6 and change (Amazon).

I had an electrical fire in the dashboard harness in May. I was lucky enough to get the positive battery cable off before the car burned up. (Lesson to all of you who wrench on the battery terminals - keep the positive one loose enough to remove by hand.) I saw the wire harness arc over to...

I wrapped my header with fiberglass matting (four folds) and then topped it with aluminum flashing cut to size. Wire tied it around the header.

If you have fender top mounted lights, the dash lights were sometimes omitted.

Nice job documenting this conversion RRR! This should be a sticky!

Try jumping out the ignition switch just to see if it starts. Wire from battery positive to coil positive and then crank. If it starts, then it may be either the ignition switch or the ballast. This is an easy test.

I forget the real name. I had the part number and I found it on eBay. Reverse actuating pin? Post #1 above has a part number.

I found an NOS plastic operating lever and it was so stiff, I couldn’t press the center pin in it to lock into place. It snapped out of my hand and fell right into the open hole of the column shaft cover...DOH!!!! I will probably change the neutral safety switch on the transmission to the...

Good luck! I found a NOS pin that was so rigid, I couldn’t get it installed. It actually flew out of my hands and down the interior of the column :-( I think I may weld a nut on the column shaft so I can use a bolt. Otherwise, replace the neutral safety switch on the transmission to a 2...

Don’t be this guy! Good luck!

I trouble shot a 1968 Hemi Roadrunner once that had similar problems. Everything was brand new. Battery fully juiced. Dome lights came on when the door was opened but when you tried to start it, everything died. I tracked it down to a new positive battery cable that had a factory defect. The...

I added a solenoid switch to the washer spray button and a keep alive circuit to the solenoid as well. To start the car, turn the key to run and hit the spray switch. When key turns off, the stay alive circuit also dies to reset it automatically. The solenoid controls the hot wire to the coil...

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring Diagrams

Mechanical VR (though to know for sure, you need to look under the black cover. If you see a coil there, it truly is a mechanical unit.) Electronic VR

I agree with Redfish. Plus, a modern voltage regulator may solve your problem too. The electronic voltage regulators do a much better job at keeping the alternator's output at 12.5 volts or higher, even if the engine's idle RPMs remain the same. If you already have an electronic VR, then...

Sorry, but you lost me at "space charge". I never took a course in electronics, though I wish I had.

Cover it with dielectric grease or vasoline. Corrosion is worst on the positive terminal. This is normal.

When the old style (mechanical) voltage regulators burn out, they can be fixed easily by soldering a short wire to bridge the burnt internal wire. Just take off the black cover and search for the burnt/broken wire and bridge it with a splice/solder. When their "points" get pitted, file them...

I agree. There should be no relationship between the MAD mod and the no-start condition directly. It must be a loosened connection. Probably something under the dash. Check the plug on the back of the ignition switch (if your car doesn't have it in the steering column). Also check that it is...

You can check it anywhere. If it is 14.5 at the battery with the engine running, it's not going to be higher at the resistor (only lower due to resistance in the wiring harness).