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Broken tube weld in the K-frame where the lower control arm rod goes through? Have to loosen the rod and visually inspect.

First, your coupler is nearly fallen completely apart! The part that I have circled is supposed to be inside the part just below it. This is DANGEROUS! Don’t drive this car until you’ve put this joint back together.

I bought a NOS one years ago. It was so brittle and stiff that I figured even if I could install it without dropping the steering column, it would snap off pretty quickly. I actually dropped it into the column tube, never to be seen again.

Yes, this is pretty common. My GTX is making a noise that tells me I have the same problem on the passenger side. The fix is to reweld it and afterward, use a large washer with center hole larger than the tube welded over the tube/k-member area (after grinding it flat). I haven’t done this...

It’s not the number of turns you should be counting. You should instead be measuring the height per the FSM. Get one for free here : MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

It sounds like your ride height is completely out of spec if the tire is rubbing. This assumes that you are using correct wheels and tires for your model. I urge you to read the section in the FSM on setting the ride height. If you don,t have a FSM, get one free here: Free service manuals

And your using this adjustment to set the ride height, right? Because that's the only thing this adjustment is to be used for correctly. If you don't know what I'm talking about, this is an alignment adjustment to set the differential heights of the LCA pivot point and the lower ball joint so...

Here are the specs for radial tires. Make sure they set the ride height correctly first!!! They cheat with this when they can't meet the specs, so they lower the ride height inappropriately. If this is the case, then you need to install the Moog offset upper control arm bushings.

I would definitely check wheel bearings, both inner and outer. Good luck!

Yes, I believe those are the cut off years. Up to 72 used a front mounted bar on the K member and 73 and later used a bar that goes through the middle of the K member.

Why not take it to a frame shop and have them do the whole job? My guy towed it to his shop, stretched and pulled back to exact factory specs, welded on the new frame rail portion and towed it back home for a mere $800 in NJ! Plus he trial fitted the fenders, hood and grille for free. They...

I had a frame shop do something similar on a Turbo T-Bird that I had, but as 3404speed said, they pulled the bent pieces as close to original as possible and then cut off the partial rail and welded on the new one with gusset plates to strengthen the welded area.

My first guess is that the tube in the K- member that the strut rod goes thru broke free and is allowing the lower control arm to swivel around somewhat. Of course I am assuming that your bushings are all of in good shape. Check the K-member by loosening the strut nut and seeing what kind of...

The piece on a 1967 is nylon and is set with a nylon pin in its center, spreading out fingers into the column tube to hold it in place. Theoretically, pushing the centerpin all the way thru (if even possible) would release the fingers so it might be pried up. It's probably so brittle, that it...

Thank you all! We asked on both FBBO and here. A nice guy (Snakeyes) posted the diagram for us on FBBO. We should be good to go now. Thanks for your time and consideration!

I thought I'd try here because you guys are the best! My friend is looking for the frame specs for his 69 Road Runner convertible. He is installing new fenders and the holes aren't lining up. He will try to measure the frame points to see if it was previously tweaked. Many thanks!

Yes, this looks like it is for the later years. I might have one that should work for you too ($75 plus shipping). It is 37" between hole centers. Are you slipping it into the K member? That's where it's supposed to go.

This would be my first guess too.

The top of my head says 90 degrees to the frame, as it needs to move equally in both forward and reverse directions. Best to look at the FSM for sure.

Looks like that to me too!

Yes, remove carpets and padding before welding them in!

Use a movers dolly. AMD sells a replacement torsion bar subframe and Autobody Specialties sells a weld over cap to repair it ( http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=0036) though if it was rusted that bad, I'd opt to replace the entire unit with the AMD piece.

This is correct!

I don't believe your problem is the pump. Instead it is in the steering gearbox. It is filled with ball bearings and one or more of them probably got stuck and/or smashed (simplisticly speaking). Time for a rebuild or replacement I'm afraid.

37" between center of link eyes. 9" to top when the bar is set vertically from floor.

I have a spare 1973/up sway bar with brackets (used) for $75 plus shipping. PM me if interested and I'll email some photos for you.

All I know is it is from a 1973 or later A body as it won't fit my 1967 Cuda. It is the type that goes thru the K frame. If you are interested, I'll take a photo of it tomorrow.

I have a factory front sway bar you can have for $75 plus shipping. It has the brackets and end links.

If you correctly use the silicone grease (normally furnished with the bushings) you never get a squeak. Only time I ever had squeaks was on my GTX,and then I found that the mechanic forgot to use the grease I gave him. Easy fix though, he just pulled, lubed and reinstalled. No more squeaks!

I used the poly UCA bushings but rubber for the LCAs. I am very happy with the performance, especially after I add an antisway bar. I had a hard time finding poly LCA bushings and as I recall, they don't recommend them.