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My '72 has the white top, but with a mostly all black interior and I think even that looks good. I like the white top even better with a white interior. I'd go with white on her car.

I bought a VFN hood this summer. I was very impressed. Fantastic fit and finish. It's a pin on hood, but has good reinforcement around the edges. Very light weight, but I was able to move it around and put it on/off the car by myself with no worries and little flexing. Here's a couple pics of...

I would actually recommend asking your questions at an autobody forum. There are some great ones around with great guys on them willing to help. When I read your question about smoothing the holes, I had an answer in the sense that I'd read a lot about things like that, but I think it's better...

Dart rear markers are different than Duster/Demon ones though. You could make either work, but grafting from a Duster would look more correct (and probably better).

If you want the side marker lights to match the rear ones, get '72 Dart fenders. The '70-'71 ones will work, but as said above, the side marker lights will be a different style. Either will bolt in place though.

I didn't realize the situation was this dire :) I can send you all those rusty and semi-rusty bolts I was telling you about from one of the Darts I parted out. I'm sure I have the fender bolts, decklid bolts, valence bolts, stuff like that. That way, you'll not only know what size bolt it is...

Yeah, doesn't look bad. I received some "rust free & straight" fenders recently that are going to need 100 times more work than that to be "rust free & straight"!

Can you post pics of the damage?

'72 Dart is a one-year-only fender, technically. For fitment purposes, it's the same as '70-'71, but the side marker light hole is different. But those are the three years that will fit if you don't mind having different marker lights in front than in back. Or, modify them to take '72...

Also, use a different color epoxy for your first primer coat than the color you use for your build coat. For example, if you're using a grey build coat primer, use black epoxy. That way, combined with your guide coat, you'll know when you've gone through the build coat to the epoxy, meaning...

Yeah, I just didn't want anyone to interpret my statement as being sure about what would work. But yeah, the research certainly indicates replacing it as 2 pieces, or doing some other modification, unfortunately. The from underneath thing seemed a logical alternative to me, but... nothing is...

Actually, I wasn't sure, hence my question mark. Even with the frame rails there, it seems like it could go in at an angle and sort up up and wedge it in there, but maybe not. Seems like it would be a bigger hole than the trunk opening anyway. But, this article that may be helpful implies...

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Just love the patina. Plus, it's a lot cheaper this way, and the car isn't any less fun to drive. Leave it alone. If you do sell it, leave it up to the next guy. You'll never get your money out of whatever you spend on the paint, no matter how much or little money you spend, you'll be money...

So what have we learned? Use seam sealer. And if you ever do use POR-15, wear gloves no matter what, and avoid scratching your nuts.

OK, there are several, that's why I asked which one you meant, but with the Chevelle video clue, I was able to figure out which one. This car I'm going to disc strip since it's not coming apart, but this is good to know possibly for a future car. Since your car is apart and on the spit, I think...

$400 to soda strip whole car? Looks like you're just down the road from me. Would like to get that contact info in case I decide to go that route. I've stripped with 80 on DA before, it's not that bad, so that's what I was going to do (and probably will do). I hope you have a good air compressor.

It's not that bad. The bumper that's on it was designed to go with the "beak" header, for better or for worse. I'd leave it as is. Let the car be itself.

I would consider having Maaco do my car after I do all the prep, but I wonder if they do color matches, since I want it to match factory color, and it's not an easy color to match (GA4 Light Gunmetal Metallic). I'll have to stop by my local one and see some of their work.

Wow. That looks like a nice panel. At least that half of it. GTS clone or not, I'd be STRONGLY tempted to not even touch that one at all. Seriously.

What rmchrgr and younggun2.0 said. Unless you KNOW for a FACT from EXPERIENCE that you can do something this extreme, don't do it, it will end in frustration. Unless of course your ambition only extends about this far:

Let the car be itself.

See what it would cost to have someone do the work for you (looks like you might have an offer above), but if that's near the same price as another body or solid car, then use this as a parts car and get another car. Always do the math and make the decision based on that, not on emotion.

If you're asking for opinions, the '67 Dart GT is a very classy looking car, and I think that by far they look best with no scoop at all. I also don't generally like cars with non-era correct scoops, so something like a dual-snorkel (like on a '72 Demon for example) I think would look bad. If...

OHHHHHHHHHH, I see... I didn't notice before how it's also modified in FRONT of the wheel. I was totally focused on the shortened rear section. I knew I must be missing something! Yeah, if it were me, I would say forget it and put some huge wheels/tires on the back and make it look like it was...

Maybe I'm missing something here, but why do you need new whole quarters? It looks to me like just the rear quarter sections from AMD would fix it up fine. Even if they changed the angle of the rear portion of the rear well itself, AMD's rear quarter patches go all the way up above the wheel a...

For the love of all that is right in the world, just LET THE CAR BE ITSELF.

Why not just make one out of sheet steel for that area? Looks pretty flat? Just a thought.

I was surprised, but Advance Auto had the Universal Molding release tool that pauly is talking about. If you have those in your area check their website (or other auto stores). Get it for about the price it would have cost just for shipping to you.

Here's a few threads that already have some opinions to help you out: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=176620&highlight=AMD+bumpers+thinner http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=235829&highlight=AMD+bumpers+thinner...