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the screw in.

Check with Crackedback he does have a power point IIRC. Really welding the tubs and such is the easy part IMO i used self tapping screws to get it all back in place then welded. Now the spring relocation will require a skilled welder.

Not sure about a direct fit ready to install! Im going to guess No! Split the factory one and move it over. I would think the prep work would be the same regardless as you need to clear room for extra space. I used self tapping screws to hold everything till I welded it.

Considering /6 with AC uses the same bars as 318 without air. It will most likely feel the same as it does with the /6

Probably wont notice a thing.

I wouldn't crank on those bolts with the weight on the suspension.

45 5/16 housing width. 50 5/8 overall. 4.5 backspacing. Mini tub and spring relocation done. 28 x 13.5 ET streets on 15x10 rim.

Correct to take full advantage of spring relocation mini tub is needed. Not that bad. Can do with basic tools and welder.

I had the same thing on my Scamp when i tore it apart. Soak it down really good. Then then turn the bolt it may only go just a bit each way give that oil a chance to work its way in there. it was a PITA but I got it without a torch. Your doing the best thing you can do now is take a break run...

What fun these are ehh! First off did you soak it down with some penetrating oil? Also which side did you break does the bolt still have the head on it? Try to rotate the bolt and hammer at the same time.

Which size did you go with? Not a part you want to take lightly. Any sign of damage time for another set.

I dont remember mine having any arch. Could be they are tired? Are they used?

I do believe im having the same issue here! Can I ask what you did to fix it? I may have figured it out. I took the wheel and centered it then ran the tie rods in and out on each side to get them going straight. This about what you did?

Alright thanks for the help. Watched a few videos. I set the camber and will do toe in this weekend. Now for the steering. Using a manual box i get just bout 4 turns lock to lock. with the wheels all the way left i get 19" from the body to the tire and turned to the right i get 23" same...

Getting the front alignment roughed in so I can get it to a shop. I have no fancy gauges. I know I can get camber and toe in close nuff. Thinking for the camber a 2x4 against the tire with a angle finder setting at 0 would get me close? then set the toe in! For the steering i want to turn lock...

Im guessing its because my laptop is old and slow.. Ive been able to load them before but for some reason today they wont load.

Haha James I did google search and you posted this up 2 years ago here lol. upper ball joint nut................55 lower ball joint nut................100 lower control arm pivot nut.....145 control arm upper cam bolt.....65 rebound stop nuts.................25 crossmember...

Getting the Scamp ready for its maden voyage. Does anyone have the front end torque specs suspension and steering. Ive tried to load the service manual but cant get it to load on my computer.

Craigslist your local area probably more out there then you know. Even wanted ads work too. May have to put in wheel time. Cheapest would probably be a newer A 73+ BBP car. Check the yards there may be one there that has the pieces you need.

couldnt you use grade 8 hardware bolts in 1/2 instead?

Could be that they are not clocked correctly. Before you installed the torsion bars did you make sure that center lever the part thats hitting was all the way down? They need to be all the way down inside the control arm then the torsion bar installed.

Where might one find these factory specs and measurements?

wow quick replies... Good tip about getting the weight off the wheels i might just have done that that without thinking. They are 340 bars .870. I dont believe its down on the bump stops. Im not ready to set right height just yet but wanted to be able to get my floor jack under. Maybe ill start...

There may not be right answer for this but roughly if turning the adjuster bolt one full turn how much will the car raise? Just dropped my RB in and cant even get the floor jack under the K frame. Wanna raise it up a bit.

This is a suspension thread but yet the OP has yet to mention what he has for suspension now. Give us a run down on what you have. Maybe what you have just needs tuning.

IIRC when i did mine i had the pin though the K bolted. No you shouldnt have to remove the adjuster block to clock the lever all the way down. But if you dont clock that lever down you have less travel with the adjuster. Possibly not enough tension on the torsion bar. if it were me i would take...

You need to back the adjuster bolts all the way down. This lever should be all the way down before you insert the torsion bar in.

did you clock the arms on the LCA all the way down before intalling the torsion bars?

After seeing the photo of one in carnage what would you do should that bend the other way with your children in the back? Nobody forsees an accident but......