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Well, looks like this manifold is now listed as “unavailable” on summit, so I guess it’s not gonna be produced. :mob:

I think the “deal” he’s waiting on is the “waiting for the day I get off my *** and do something with them.” lol

Well that’s stupid…

Did they charge your card when you ordered or upon shipment? If they don’t charge until they ship, I think I’ll put an order in on one just so I’m locked in IF they ever ship.

Dang. I was really hoping they’d come through on these.

If you’re on FB, join a group called Magnum EFI Swap Group. There’s a guy on there by the name of Kerry Kinser who sells a fuse/relay box that plugs directly into the 98-01 harness and only requires hooking up 3 wires to your car. Real nice, basically plug and play option.

This is the first I’ve seen of this intake option. Hopefully they actually start shipping them in September! If they do, I just might have to buy one to try out

According to Modern Drivelines website, their 360 and 5.9 flywheels have the same 22.67 ounce balancing weight. So theoretically, the magnum flywheel should work on the LA and give you the provisions for the crank sensor.

Here you go. He details everything he did/used to run a boosted 5.9 (with the BB intake) with a Terminator X. Also, I agree with you 100% on the reliability of the factory mpfi on the magnum motors. That’s the big draw (along with cheaper) for me to want to run the factory stuff over aftermarket.

Oh yeah, I didn’t think about the flywheel/manual issue. I plan to put the factory efi back on the 5.9 in my Duster but I have an intake that’s had bungs added and I’m also running an ax-15 transmission, so I was able to use a factory ram flywheel.

If you’re wanting to go efi but wanting to save some money, consider keeping the factory mpfi injection. Course, the downside to using the factory mpfi is you’re stuck with either the kegger intake, the expensive Hughes intake or having a machine shop add bungs to a carbureted intake.

https://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=browse&level0=Qi0gU21hbGwgQmxvY2sgRG9kZ2UgTWFnbnVt&level1=VmFsdmUgU3ByaW5ncw==&partid=35162

How were the cam bearings? I have a cam to swap into my 150k? 5.9 that’s in my Duster. Sure hope the bearings still look good in it, as I plan to just swap the cam and heads in the car.

So let’s flip the table here for a second and ask “which intake is worse” instead of “which intake is better”… Street master or the original Torker? :lol:

I’ve got a kegger intake in storage along with the factory fuel rails. I’m hoping to be able to use those to avoid buying new ones.

I definitely appreciate everyone’s input and advice! I picked up the street dominator off eBay tonight for $225. Once I get the engine put together and installed, I think for the fun/knowledge/experience of it, I’ll run my current China-gap intake and the SD back to back (with a carburetor) and...

Oh yeah, should change that in my earlier post. I used a flywheel from a 98 5.9 Ram, not a Dakota.

You do make good points there, I’ll definitely do some number crunching before it all happens. That said, call me weird, but one draw to using a different intake over the Hughes one is the challenge of figuring everything out to make it work. I do plan to use the factory magnum rails, regardless...

That’d be ideal, but I’m not gonna pay $700+ for an intake. I’ll stay carbureted before I do that.

Oops. Street Dominator is what I had in mind. I’m also open to other suggestions.

My tunnel and upper crossmember were torched out by a previous owner so I ended up just installing the transmission and building a new tunnel around it. Transmission came out of a 98 Dakota, flywheel from a 98 Ram with a 5.9, clutch and pressure plate are all factory 98 Dakota parts, clutch...

I also thought about using a performer rpm and an air gap, but figured the single planes are going to be easier to install the injector bungs in the runners. I also currently am running a China-gap knockoff intake and originally my plan was to just use that intake, but I’ve read multiple reports...

Looking for opinions/recommendation on which intake to pick up. Engine info: mild 5.9 magnum with stock pistons, .218/.224 cam, speedmaster aluminum heads (not sure yet if I’m gonna get them ported or not, need to get some quotes). Plan would be to add injector bungs to whatever intake I run...

If I had the extra money and ambition to take on the restoration of that black one, I’d buy it in a heartbeat! Ridiculous rare and awesome combination!

He’d given me a range of open pressure as well, but I honestly don’t remember what it was. I’ll have to call him and find out what it was for sure.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I guess what I’m going to do is drop the heads and valves off at the machine shop and have him measure everything and give me a recommendation on springs or at least get me an install height so I can go from there. One more question, I have a set of 1.5...

These are the intake valves I got. Speedmaster PCE273.1049 Procomp Electronics Valves | Summit Racing And these are the exhaust valves. Speedmaster PCE273.1050 Procomp Electronics Valves | Summit Racing

I bought a set of the bare heads but then I bought the valves from Speedmaster for those heads. So should I maybe just take the heads to the machine shop and have them measure the install height and recommend me which springs to buy?

Yes

It’s a 5.9 magnum hydraulic roller cam, if that makes a difference.