Search results for query: *

al i have dealt with john alot before. he has what you need and more. he will build it how you want as well. check this...

some will say yeah go get it. it is not going to make a world of difference but it will be some for sure. i would not spend the money for 2 different gear swaps in a row myself. did you check with crackedback? al as i said you would be likeing the car alot more with a comfortable gear ratio you...

well it is an 8 3/4 that is for sure. the 741 numbers mean it is the weakest of the 8 3/4 rears. i copied this to help you understand the numbers. hope it helps! 2070741 AKA "741" : The 741 is the weakest 8 ¾ center section you can buy. Commonly found in V8 A bodies before 1973. The 741...

it is a good buy for what it is. if you want to directly bolt it in an abodie it wont just bolt up without some work. the "742" thing is the case the gears are in that is all. i say if possible get pics and get someone to help you look at it to determine if it is what he claims it is. don't wait...

i see a 2.76 suregrip available in 1970 in a coronet wagon. no 2.73 ratio anywhere. nothing smaller than 2.76 in 1970. 68,69 both had 2.94's suregrips but nothing smaller. check it carefully as it looks like a station wagon rear....

superbee with a 2.73 suregrip??? seems like a station wagon setup to me.....

i am useing these axels. i think it has to do with the design of the axels. the ends are made thicker and only tapered greens will fit. don't quote me on this though....

another vote for the 8 3/4

looks good to me. i would drive it around some with a full tank of gas. give it some time to settle down before you go flipping springs....

man to be totally honest i am not sure. i would assume it would have to be along the top just like the 8 3/4 axel. maybe someone can help with that as i don't even have a car with an 8 1/4 to look at to find it....

check the axle vent also. if it is clogged up then pressure can build causeing it to leak from the pinion.....

no it is a mild 318 w/904 sorry for not point this out. rear is a 489. changed from a 741.

i see.....well the guy is a "mopar " guy that is doing it and he didn't feel it was a consern , but did want to mention it. he has already set it up and put in it the rear. i think if he feels confident enough to do this then i feel like he is on the level. i just have never had to deal with...

i would but it is not here with me........by the sound of your skeptisium what possible problems could i be faceing?

quick question here. first off i don't have any pictures of this so sorry....i found out today that the used pumpkin for an 8 3/4 that i have for my wifes car has a slightly rusty ring gear. it is just in one place on the gear. like got into some water and surface rust got on it. it did get...

hey johnny did you do the brakes yourself or did you get them from a guy on ebay? are they bare metal or silver painted? did you change out the rear axels to the larger bolt pattern as well?

1972 was the last of the 8 3/4 rears at least in a bodies

that would be a 9 1/4 rear. check this link: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=12985

so you bought that duster huh Pana.Mopar? the one in your avatar? i saw that duster when it was for sale a few weeks ago in california if i remember correctly. i even showed it to my wife. it is very pretty! what a great combo. very nice indeed, good job!

this might not be as detailed as yours adam but it does cover a few more. it makes a nice addition to this thread i think......

what is that out of? is it from an a body? looks like a 69 and older console. the shifter is wrong for a 71 even if the console works.

8 3/4 rears were not used in a bodies after 72......

8 1/4 Castings numbers: 2852905, 3723598, 3723599 8 ¼ Introduced in 1969. This rear end will be found in all Darts / Valients from 73 - 76 and also can be found in 340 Dusters and other A bodies. There is a sure -grip available beginning in 1973. Sure-grip units are commonly found in...

74-75 dart ,valliant 198-225 slant/6 904 try this link for part#'s http://lightningjar.com/decoders/partnumbers/

go to the tech section and look under "rear end i.d. guide" this will help.

again some more info pulled straight from another site. hope it helps.... Ranger rear-end? The Ranger rear end is a 7.5", also found in Bronco II , many are traction-locks, most had a 3.45, 3.73, or 4.10 ratio and parts are cheap because the same carrier came in mustangs etc. with V6s...

here may be the answer you need....this is copied from another website. hope this helps! Granada rear-end in a Mopar A-body? The Ford axle is an 8" unit. So yes, its stronger than a 7.25" (anything is). The center drops out like the Chrysler 8 3/4 and Ford 9". If so, its a good thing. The...

here are a few helpful pictures and meausrements to help i.d. the type of rear you have or want to find.

hold on i think i may understand this now. lets say the flash convertor is a 3000 flash. what you are saying is that this will work like it is a 3000 stall convertor but cruise as if it were a much smaller convertor...am i right on this?

i understand the "flash " aspects of the convertor. what i mean is why is the "flash" convertor supposed to be more efficent at highway speeds than a regular higher than stock convertor (say b&m holeshot , or any other brand) from what i have read the "flash" convertors are supposed to be better...