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flux is for fence posts, you need to get a welder than can run a bottle

or turn wire speed all the way down

i like 28-30 for still conditions (inside with no air movement) and 30-32 for a slight breeze (swamp cooler, a/c, shop doors open. if it gets to much air movement it will just blow the shielding gas away

we have our cars done... so yea its a big *** vat

well first thing that comes to mind is have it chemically dipped like we do our cars, only thing left is virgin metal. then coat it with something, epoxy and/or...

find a lift heavy equipment installer, he will have or have access to good used lifts. replace the seals and maybe the cable if it lifts a angled and pay pennies on the dollar. just make sure your getting one for at minimum 7500lbs, our Western is 9K lbs.

we have 1/2" pvc schd 80 with a 175psi two stage compressor. all the pvc has been there for about 8 years or so.

Wasn't mentioned but 100% works every time jack hammer

cant go big enough... minimum 2 stage 175psi

gas only... unless your welding fence posts out in BFE... even then run gas...

a vice

what ever you get make sure its a narrow front so you can get under low stuff. i use a normal one and it sucks!

2x!

we have a 10K CFM unit for our 40x60 shop and its great... even when its 105 and 50% humidity...

they dont work great in humidity but its still a hell of alot cheaper and still works just fine for shop duty... i mean damn... your already dirty, greasy, and sweaty... what is keeping that little extra sweat in worth? last year here in AZ i ran the Refridg AC @ 85* (105-120 outside) only...

holy crap guys 75 degree's! there is no need to go any lower than 80*... heck... and you should be using the swamp cooler as its MUCH cheaper to run...

if by pole you mean stick built it will cost you around 75 a sqft... a steel building will be from the 15-25 a sqft range... as for block i dont know... i have been trying to get a 60x60 going but having a house on my name is killing me...

oh yea i know... ive done porting before just never with my own tools... and so im trying to collect stuff... more like my dad will buy my tools if i do the work on his head kinda deal... tools for labor deal ya know! i already found all the spring seat and valve seal tools... and now burrs...

yea thats kinda where im trying to go! thanks for the ideas...

they show single and double cut... is the single for aluminum so it wont clog or is that another style all together?

the sand roll kit or the burrs from HF??

ok so i want to buy the tools to do the slant head for my dad... now im not ready to jump in on seats and stuff (though ive done it before)... so im looking for: a guide cutter so i can run push on seals spring seat cutter and burrs for porting... i would like to get quality stuff but not...

here is the dart and AWB in the garage... definitely tight...

same as the welder lol... depending on your use will make the size... but go for a oiled as they last longer and go bigger than what you need... PITA waiting for it to fill...

we bought one a long time ago and the gas valve was broke before we got it out of the box lol... a welder isn't a good place to skip on quality...

well on the old ones they dont seems to like to stick even with two seconds... but im sure i count fast to...

yea i had fun getting a hemi and a slant on them to...

just 110... your holding the "coil" in you hand lol agreed on the 3"... also get the 3hp chop saw... we went thru the two lower ones in one day... the 1.5 or 2hp one lasted half of a axle housing end and the 2 or 2.5 lasted a housing end and one axle... 3hp is working great...

on our old thick gauge cars you can hold it for about 4 seconds, you get a good stick that way... on new thin gauge stuff your pushing it at 3 seconds... make sure the area is bare metal, also make sure the contact ring is making as much contact as possible... get them as close together as...

yea we use one... it works great