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I think it's good price to avoid flaming balls of molten tar on your face and neck from burning it off with propane and a putty knife. I'm guessing they will still have to scrape most of off, because blasting off undercoating just melts it and doesn't work very well IMO.

Seam sealer from napa.

Adam is right on the money.

Yep. Start with 1000 grit 1200, 1500 and use lots of clean water. Cut and buff.

Everything in the picture is what you need. I swapped my 73 Dart over. The first picture is the day that I pulled it home.

Yep a good Epoxy sealer will work best. I would do about 3 coats to ensure good coverage. I just did this for a buddies shell that he is putting in storage for a while. Summit sells a cheap epoxy and catalyst. I shoot it with a 1.8 tip http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-UP230/...

I wish that you were closer.

can you get a long bolt in there and tack it to the bolt head with a mig. Works like a charm.

By the time that you spent $100 on rattle cans you could have bought an adequate hvlp gun. Just remember that in a couple of years when this paint is rusted and peeling off you will have to sand all of it off anyway to do a decent paint job. It's your car, do what you want. This is one of...

I love that car. Hurry up and finish it already.

But that black finish is worth every penny. You could shave in that finish, like glass.

That's no joke. Some people definition of blocking is not the same as mine. A simple scuff and paint can get expensive really quick.

When I got this car it was in sealer and already had the metal work done to it, but I had to go back and repair a few places and block the car a couple of times. I charged him $1600, but he bought the paint supplies and it was a friend deal. I did poly spray on filler, sealer, base, clear, cut...

I think a cheaper alternative would be to drill them out and bush them and install a new pin. I am sure a machine shop could do it for cheap if you don't have the ability. Would be cheaper than paying international shipping and cost of new hinges. my 2 cents

You guys are right. My bad. :D

It does fit, but the marker light is different. On the 71 it's recessed in the fender and the 73 it's not. The 71 has a fender extension and the 73 doesn't.

+1 on the epoxy primer on good metal.

Year, make, model and post or non post would help. :D

Art I have used 4 different color metallics from Summit (I heard it's Sherman Williams paint actually). All colors shot really nice. Even I could do it.

The Fury was originally had red flake vinyl interior too. Red on Red you can't beat it. I can't wait to see your 65 in that color, because I was thinking about painting my wife's 65 Barracuda in that color also. Keep us posted. I would go for the Iwata. Sounds like a great deal...

I painted a 66 Fury with that exact paint 2 years ago. Turned out beautiful and the paint is easy to shoot, just follow the directions. If you are looking for a cheap decent paint gun set then look here. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DVR-802343/ It's what I used for that exact car and...

That's what I was trying to get across daredevil. Like he said, just make sure you shoot within the recoat window.

I have used summits epoxy and 2k. For bare metal you will want to shoot epoxy first for rust prevention. If you just scuff the rest you can shoot 2k over the entire car and wet sand to 600 grit before you shoot your single stage. I would not sand epoxy.

Before you start wet sanding your clear and cutting it I would find someone who has done it before to help you. Honestly there are so many tricks to painting and much of it for me is a "feel" thing. I can often feel a problem before I can see it.

It really is all about prep and making sure that you have good adhesion. If it's your first time I would stay away from metallics, because what you got is what you got. Very difficult to blend and you can't sand the base. Where if you shoot a not metallic you can actually wet sand blemishes...

I like using a thick coat of Poly primer like Omni MP243 before I apply surfacer. It's like spray on filler. It fills any imperfections and small dips that you may have missed while blocking. I like these steps Strip and prep for filler (I like taking the metal where filler is applied to...

I was wrong. Those are amazing. How about a close up of your reflection? BTW thanks for the insecure psyco pm. Loved it. My wife and I both had a good laugh.

No I just think that it's funny that the title of the thread is "Quality DIY paint jobs" and you are recommending for someone to paint outside, because it offers the best light.

You must live in an area with no bugs, dust, lint or dirt. Now I have heard it all. My guess is that someone will be a little upset when they see the finish up close. Did you include in the ebay auction "was painted outside on a warm sunny day"? LOL How about you invest in some good...

It's weird. It looks factory, but I can't find a pic anywhere that shows what would go there. I will take a pic.