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Very good. Glad to hear it was a small dollar item.

Wouldn't this just require a reset of the timing after the plug wire were reversed? I have noticed that the HEI get's quite warm when operating and I'm always looking for the cooler range of operation. One write-up of the HEI conversion says that the wires need to be correctly placed: "Make...

Does it actually run backwards or diesels when turned off? The later would more be either too much retard (closer to TDC) or overly rich mixture and possibly preignition. Make sure timing is corrected before working on anything else. If your friend's Petronix ignition worked, would that be the...

That blue box is the seatbelt interlock. All of the main wires coming from your ignition switch go to this unit but it they are not in series, meaning that if you disconnected them, they are not vital to the operation of other electrical items. If you value the seatbelt buzzer, seatbelt light...

Try swapping the distributor wires and rechecking timing. Oddly, one works and the other doesn't. In the HEI conversion on my Duster, the correct connection never let the ignition rev more than 1300 or so, and by switching the connection, allowed free revving and starting.

Yes. The gap is good. I just rechecked the power to the coil with the ign. on and a lead from the negative terminal to a ground - to check for spark. And that's good. Rechecked the tower for ohms and getting 10K ohms. That's good. Regrounded the ECU and checked for spark at the tower - nothing.

Still have not found the source of this issue. Took the dizzy off and looked at the pick-up. The wire to the pick-up looked as if it was rubbing on the pick-up base plate and wore through. I'm sure it shorted out. But I replaced the pick up (while at it, changed the advance curve less 2* and...

Spins fine. Everything mechanical seems fine too.

Tested the + coil terminal while cranking through the key and it is showing 10.4 volts. I checked the reluctor, and because the pickup baseplate rocks somewhat, the top of the pickup is slightly farther away from the reluctor-and it is about as close as I can get it so I won't dare get it...

Hmmm, then the conclusion would be that no power is getting to the pickup either from a bad ECU or pickup. Is that reasonable? Oh, and TXDart, is that Avitar a picture of you? Good to meet you! (Wink)

Demon Seed - That reluctor is a cast steel unit - It would be the very last thing I would replace as it seems to be the item least prone to problems. Are you referring to the pickup? That whole distributor is a cheap new unit but I suppose it could be bad already. D

Did this - Sparked as I tapped the temporary wire to ground on each tap.

I mean 0 ohms as "no" resistance. The test of the tower of the coil to a terminal shows some ohms. Not sure how much as my ohm gauge reads less than 1 ohm on the positive side and just over 1 ohm on the negative side. The positive side shows around 6 volts when cranking.

There is voltage at the + terminal with the key in the run position, but no spark when I jump the coil from the battery and try to start it. I "eyeballed" the reluctor gap and it's pretty close without touching but I only have steel feelers so my guestimate should be pretty close.

Was slowing for a stop light the other day and the car died. Pushed it to the side of the road and tried restarting it. Nothing. Waited 20 minutes and tried again. It started then died 5 blocks away. After towing it home and checking for spark, nothing. No spark out of the coil to the...

Green 1 - I say "around" as my painted stripes on the Damper is only as close to 10* and 20* as I can paint them on. When I shoot it with the timing light, the second stripe is a hair over TDC. The vacuum on the distributor is getting close to 14 inches at idle, and when I time the car to work...

As my boss likes to say, "...give me some time to wrap my brain around what you just said." The ECU is stock but the distributor is a cheap O'reilly's unit (budget constraints). I did try plugging the vaccum line to both ports and with similar results, and I do believe that I have the idle...

I’ve been fine tuning the engine of my Duster but notice that the engine runs smoother at normal driving with the vacuum ports plugged and the distrib. Vaccum hose unplugged from the carb. and plugged. This is odd to me as I’ve understood the vacuum advance should help the driving...

Thanks Hemitheus, I'll relook at the bulkhead connections.

I do not see the views your described.

Thank you Redfish for that dual horn suggestion. I did have horn problems a while back and I'll try your suggestion. On the wiring diagrams, my mind is quite boggled trying to keep all three wiring diagrams in check but I've narrowed down a system and it's working - up to now anyway. But the...

The two simple diagrams for the 1973 and 1974 do show small differences in the wiring so I had to chose one and go with that template. The Haynes book shows a lot more detail and has helped tremendously. On this issue though, the horn works great when the engine is off, and is only when it's...

Ha, ha. Thanks Green1. I already am in trouble. But I see more information better than little information--Even if it is bad information.

Should the horn relay be grounded? I have mine just sitting on the shelf underneath the dash.

Dave - I do have wiring diagrams - One in the Haynes book, one print of the 1974 diagram, and one for the 1973 diagram. You'd think it would be easy now.

It's very possible. The seatbelt interlock wiring is quite convoluted. I tried to trace down all of those specific wires to make sure they did not interfere with the normal circuits but the main problem-the seatbelt starter lock, has been disabled. In my tracing of the specific wiring for the...

In restoring my 1973 Duster, I replaced the inside wiring harness with '74 harness. I had to bypass the interlock wiring to get it to start and fix several small differences to get the engine harness to work properly at the bulkhead. But now as I drive it to tune the carb. and timing, I push...

It turns out that I had the yellow with tracer wire from the interlock switch connected to the yellow wire to the starter relay. I disconnected the yellow with tracer from the interlock and kept the yellow wire from ignition to relay intact. The result is that it works as intended. The...

I will use your "starting from ground" pointers. Yes, I even identify your schematic as how it should be, but dang plastic wrap is in my way to see how the wires separate. I'll check it tomorrow.

On that seat belt relay, I probably did screw that up. On my prior searches for bypassing the seatbelt interlock, I found that I could jump the two yellow wires together (one solid and one with tracer) and the starter worked great. But now hindsight tells me that my quick fix only allowed me to...