Search results for query: *

The wiggle test. For sure, I wish I would have thought of that this summer. We were coming back from a car show and the oil pressure dropped on the highway. Yikes! I limped it home, looked it over and didn't see anything obvious, changed the oil and filter, cut open the filter, all clean. Took...

Here's pics of my 360 LA in my 74 Dart. Asbestos covers over the straight boots with Hooker headers. Seems to keep it all protected. It is a pain in the a$$ to pull the plugs and ensure the boot is on properly, usually lot's of skinned knuckles and choice words.

That's the trick, swapped the wires and it works. Thanks! Now, does anyone know what voodoo I need to know to push the terminals out of the L connector so I can wire this up permanently? I can feel that there is a lock but no matter where I shove my little blade screwdriver doesn't unlock it.

I'll give that a try, thanks.

Yeah I thought I made that clear, the hazard flasher mounted to the fuse box is original stock and works fine. The signal flasher mounted by the ash tray is the one I'm fiddling with. I've tried 3 different LED flashers and 2 different incandescent flashers. LED flashers don't come on at all the...

Thanks, I should have mentioned, I cleaned each socket and re did the ground wires everywhere. Grounds are good.

Hi all, On my 74 Dart I thought it would be nice to brighten up the lights. Checking the forums here I found lots of useful information. Thanks to all that contribute. Here's the situation... LED lights all around, marker lights, brakes, front signals etc. All the more expensive Phillips LED...

Thanks Johnny Mac. I don't have that blue beast under the dash, but I do have the connectors for the interlock under the hood, but no relay so it must have been bypassed, it starts just fine.

Ahh I think you hit the nail on the head RedFish. I didn't notice the traces going to the ammeter were the ones I thought were rubbed off, they in fact vaporized. I've since done the ammeter bypass under the hood, but I never thought to look at under the dash wiring. I really only need the gas...

Also, all lights and signals work fine. Hazards, headlights, horn, map lights, key buzzer, even the trunk light. The car wouldn't start with the cluster removed. I have the dash back in right now with the new 74 circuit board, none of the gauges work, but the car starts.

I don't think the harness was changed, but I could be wrong. This car was under restoration since 1984. From the problems I've had with the engine timing (40 degrees!!!) and the wrong transmission (from a early 60's), I have no confidence in anything the previous owner may or may not have done...

I didn't order any lamp sockets. I was planning on using the ones from the bad circuit board, not knowing it was a 76 circuit board and the sockets were different from that year.

I've tried, if you look at the picture, I've soldered wires to the missing traces and tried to bridge the cracked traces but there are simply too many places where they are cracked. It must have been soaked at one time, because when I removed it, it bowed almost an inch in the middle.

I bit the bullet and ordered a new dash circuit board for my 74 Dart. The old circuit board was missing traces and has way too many cracked traces to try and fix it. Trust me I tried as you can see in the picture attached. Anyway, when I got the new circuit board and my dash lights wouldn't fit...

OK, I've discovered that is a single pole NSS after doing some Google sleuthing. My question now is, can I swap out that switch for the 3 pin switch and use the existing harness, or do I have to do some rewiring and just connect a single wire to the ignition relay?

Where did you get that wiring diagram and do you think I could find one for a 1974 Dart? Simply wow, after looking the crappy Haynes diagrams and flipping back to the color codes chart, I really would love to get my hands on something like that.

Hi again, been crawling around the car for the last few nights tracing wires, cleaning terminals, etc. I unbundled the neutral safety switch harness from the headlight harness and fished it down to the transmission. Jacked up the car and crawled under. Having never hooked up a neutral safety...

Thanks for all the suggestions and tips guys. I'll say that I'm quite sure that none of the wiring for the seats are connected and neither is the neutral safety switch. I know that because I had to install the upholstery on the seats and there were no wires to be seen. The neutral safety switch...

I've been working on my 1974 Dodge Dart Swinger since buying it non-running last October. It was a slant 6 but the previous-previous owner swapped in a 360. As far as I can tell he never finished the project, so it's never run. We've got all the pieces and were ready to see if she would start...

Thanks for all the advice. Careful use of the grinder got it off, only slipped once. New battery tray is installed along with a new bolt.

I'll give the heat and water thing a try thanks. As you can see by the pics, I've pulled the brace out of the car. Easier to heat up without worrying about starting a fire or melt any cables.

The bolt that holds down the battery tray is rusted right through the tray. I bought a new tray to replace it, but I'll be damned if I get the bolt loose. I've soaked it in rust remover for a day, applied penetrating oil and lots of heat. It's not moving, the head of the bolt is done, time for...