Search results for query: *

No, the 64 Valiant is different. The 64 Barracuda, 65 Valiant, and 65 Barracuda are the same though.

You need some dum dum to seal around the holes, and it is best to slide the trim onto the tail light and then install the light and trim at the same time. And DON"T just try to pop the trim down with your hand, you need to use a pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze the clips together as you go.

As long as you change the whole front end, you'll be fine, but you may need to modify the wiring, and maybe some holes to accommodate the mounting areas for the other front end. No, the headlights bolt to the fenders, so it will all work as long as he uses everything from the donor car.

Just make sure the struts are the light weight ones for a camper top and not for a car hood or hatch. The deck lid on the Cuda is small and light weight and the standard strut for a hood or hatch will be too strong and damage the deck deck lid or break the hinges.

The 64 and early 65's used the ratchet style prop, but people would forget to lift the lid before they try to close it so they end up twisting the deck lid out of shape. In mid 65 they switched to the spring loaded style prop which worked much better and wasn't confusing. There was a guy in...

Etching primer does work ok, but it's 80's technology, nothing beats a good epoxy for adhesion. And you can sand epoxy, but it will clog the sand paper fairly quick if you don't do it correctly, I've blocked it down and even feather edged it without any problems.

The tool pictured is the one you want, just get the point under the clip and turn, the clip will release the trim and then move to the next clip. DON"T pry it up, there is a small tab that holds the trim and the more you pry up the tighter the tab holds the trim. The clips will probably break if...

I tubbed my car 20 or so years ago and that was the thing to do then, but with today's technology, you can get a set of 12" tires to hook up great with the right suspension components and tires without limiting the driveability like you will with a full out tubbed car, and you can keep your...

A fully tubbed car does drive differently than a car with a stock chassis. If you want to keep good drive ability on curvy roads then mini tub it. I do understand the traction issues though, I have a blown 416 with a 4 gear and 18.50 Mickey Thompsons and I can still easily break them loose at...

I personally love the 68 but the 70/71 comes in a very very close 2nd There was a lite green 69 that ran around the St. Louis area that had a 70/71 front clip on it and it looked *****. You would have to use a 70/71 front if you were to do it, the 72 side markers would look out of place.

I wouldn't sandblast the outer sheet metal. The jambs, engine bay, trunk, window frames and floor boards are fine and if you have lower quarter rust then cut it out first and blast that area but it's to big of a risk to blast the outer sheet metal, good stripper works better to remove paint...

The remote mirrors were an option but in the 30 or so years of messing with the early Cuda's, I' never found one. The manual mirrors were available on the right side, my stock Cuda has one. They were basically the same as the left mirror. A/C is fairly common, but the early A's with A/C is...

I second the above post, they are very common and not valuable as some try to make people think. I have 3 or 4 extras and have two more at a buddies house that I can pick up at any time for free. A realistic price if your trying to sell one is ask $150-$200 but be willing to go down quite a...

You won't find a decent deck lid so just fix yours unless it is "completely" trashed. The fenders and hood are the same on all 64-65 Barracudas and 65 Valiants. The 64 Valiant hood will work but you will need to cut the hole for the latch. The 64 fenders will also work, the difference is the 64...

That's what I do. I'll use the thin ones and then wrap small pieces however many I need to get the gap correct with tape and place them in several spots of the jam with the door latched but loose until I get the gap the way I want, then tighten a couple bolts and check it. It usually takes a...

That would look good, I personally like the dual stripe on the 68's but maybe spell out Mopar or 440 vertically instead of horizontal and it would fit the look your after.

I would run a stock 68 style stripe but paint it with the same paint as the hood, it would give it the old school feel but with a modern touch.

I love it!!! I wouldn't change a thing and try to keep it as untouched as possible.

You can never go wrong with the stock color combination, everyone goes with red and blue so be different and go stock. Everyone wanted me to change the color of the fish but I went stock anyway and now I get more positive comments about the color choice than anything else on the car. Most of...

The inner fender is either 18 or 20 gauge, it's been a while and I forgot but I think it is thicker than the outer body sheet metal.

The vinyl top would depend on if it is a coupe or fastback, they look good on coupes but not so good on a fastback. I would first get rid of any and all brazing, if you do your body work over it, it will eventually start to bubble. There is a chemical reaction between brazing and body fillers...

Where is your battery located? To be on the safe side, I would run a 10-12 gauge wire directly from the battery through a 30 amp fuse to the relay or add a small auxiliary junction block/fuse block near the battery for the 30 amp circuit and then you only have to run a 14 gauge switch wire...

I use some clear door edge guard on the bottom edges of the hood to keep from scratching the car and chipping the hood when I'm taking it on and off.

Just like everyone has said, get a bolt on. I had a lift off on my Dart in the 80's and I must of forgot how much of a pain it was because I got one on my Fish now, taking it on and off by myself isn't bad but having a place to set it at the shows becomes a problem and if there is any kind of a...

What would be the point of having a flip front end without removing the inner fenders?

I wouldn't recommend this if you don't have a lot of fabrication experience. Pretty much all Mopar A, B & E-Bodies are uni-body construction, and Yes! once the inner fenders are removed, "ALL" it's support will be gone. The front sub frame is only spot welded to the front floor pans with a...

I bought a set from them like 20 years ago, they were nice but need clean up and you have to file fit them along the door edge. I ended up selling them though, I desided to take another route and reused my steal fenders.

A few hours with a unispoter could bring it back, and a lot less body work involved than replacing or sectioning the quarter.

Very nice, I have a set of those pins in the garage and I was going to try the same thing. I guess I need to get them done now for the other Fish.