Tubbing

-

340 swinger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Messages
206
Reaction score
0
Having trouble with my 70 swinger hooking with those tiny stock tires. We all know that the tire size is very limited with the swingers. In fact it's down right dangerous because of running a 408 hooked to a 4 speed. If I decided to farm out rear tubbing, how much would one expect the cost to be? Would like to go with about a 14" wide tire. I have an upholerstry buddy that will cut the rear seat down and narrow it to sort of have a stock interior apperance. It all sounds good in a perfect world but would like to know how tubbing affects handling and tight turning etc.
 
I tubbed my '67 Barracuda myself, and only had about 20 hours in the actual frame work, another 20 in the sheetmetal. I am sure it would go much quicker now. I had a 60 series 14" tire on Ralley wheels all around before, and went with 29X18.5 M/T Sportsman Pros on the back, and 165/R15's on the front. I didn't think the handling changed much at all. It was a non sway bar car to begin with, so it wasn't much of a handler to begin with... The big bias rears do like to follow cracks in the road. For normal driving, I think it's fine, but it certainly won't help it corner any better. Good luck.
 
A fully tubbed car does drive differently than a car with a stock chassis. If you want to keep good drive ability on curvy roads then mini tub it.

I do understand the traction issues though, I have a blown 416 with a 4 gear and 18.50 Mickey Thompsons and I can still easily break them loose at 60 mph, and yes you will need to change your shorts afterwards. Although, the look in the persons eyes in the car next to you when you do it is priceless.
 
A fully tubbed car does drive differently than a car with a stock chassis. If you want to keep good drive ability on curvy roads then mini tub it.

I do understand the traction issues though, I have a blown 416 with a 4 gear and 18.50 Mickey Thompsons and I can still easily break them loose at 60 mph, and yes you will need to change your shorts afterwards. Although, the look in the persons eyes in the car next to you when you do it is priceless.

Do you know what the maximum width of rear tire you could get from mini tubbing? I may be wrong in my thinking, but if you are going to cut the wheel wells and shorten the housing and axles then I might as well go with a full tub. Do you know the pros and cons of a mini tub versus full tub?
 
Do you know what the maximum width of rear tire you could get from mini tubbing? I may be wrong in my thinking, but if you are going to cut the wheel wells and shorten the housing and axles then I might as well go with a full tub. Do you know the pros and cons of a mini tub versus full tub?


I tubbed my car 20 or so years ago and that was the thing to do then, but with today's technology, you can get a set of 12" tires to hook up great with the right suspension components and tires without limiting the driveability like you will with a full out tubbed car, and you can keep your original frame rails and floor pans. It's a lot of work to do a full tub job, if you want to do it right. If your building a street car, mini tub is the way to go.
 
I mini tubbed a '67 Dart for a friend. It was a few years ago, but I think the result was around a 16" wide wheel opening. A 10-12" wheel with the correct back spacing would be no problem. He ran 10" wheels, with a 13" tire on a stock width 8-3/4, and had tons of clearance. It was a super low buck deal, we kept the stock worn out 6 cylinder springs, and ran some free dirt track tires with a snubber. It sure launched funky, but it ran consistant 1.6 second 60 foot times.
 
Depending on how you mount the inner tub to the frame, it's right at or a smidge more than 15" for total width in the well.
 
IMHO I would not tub it. I fit a 275/60r15 drag radial in my 70 Dart rear tub with a little massaging. I have run 10s with this set up and 60 foot times in the 1.50 range. There is more to hooking up than just large rear tires. I would work the front suspension and get the ride height leveled out to get the center of gravity. The way to get a car to hook is weight based. A good traction aid like the caltrac system and good shocks.
 
-
Back
Top