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yes. All works fine. Never seen that before so I was simply unsure. Thanks.

i bought a used case and the caps were in it. Original? Who knows. case and caps measures the same so i think the holes for the bolts are Offset... strange. changing left to right is the same except the threads are not lining up that nice as above

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other view...

anybody experienced this? Not really correct or can I ignore it?

thanks Cass. I am wondering myself. Because i used good new torque wrenches, all cleaned and dry, enough space under the bolt and definitly not overtorqued with 60Nm ( not even reached ). Most of the bolts are visible damaged ( became thinner in the middle, sign for to much stress ). I am just...

My wrenches are ok Plenty of space under the bolts

you're probably right... :) Will PM him

not yet. He is here on the board, right?

Ordered a new set thru a German shop from ratech now. This throws me back 2 weeks in waiting :( and also ordered new wrenches. Both I used were new but you never know...

Here are the bolts. I can't find any markings about the grade. You can see on the other bolt it was very close to break. Also the remaining 10. i adjusted my small wrench to 30nm. Took the next wrench Ina different size with 50nm.

just being curious. Is that happened to someone else? I was torquing them not even close to specs (55 lb ft ). Guess i had 40 lb ft at that Point around and the bolts felt kinda soft and one cracked. Not sure but i got my bolts from drDiff. Can it be they were grade 5 instead of grade 8? I mean...

do you know this tool? Its for free. Well but as i said i understand measuring operating angles are the angles during Operation means under load or?? How To Use Tremec's Driveline Angle Finder App - Get Your Angle On

ok, thanks a lot. Will start today bringing the tranny in Position and measure pinion where i am. Now it sounds easier than all those Internet reading :) 3° down tranny, 2° down pinion. guess. If i jack up those assumed 5° travel on the pinion ( simulating load ) I should achieve equal...

clear as mud. Yes. hahahaha. ok, first i check if I have to bring the tranny down. otherwise i would never get a straight line under load. i'll take your numbers for caltracs and assume 4° travel because the stress at a race is much more than on the street. fu**ing angles, i already had...

Hi, never adjusted this before. Can you guide me how and where to measure. And what angle is where the optimum? Can I expect movements at the pinion upwards with those caltracs? ( dragstrip a few times a year with Slicks - 12.xx second manual car ) I read a lot in the net but it is kinda...

just found this in the I Net.... ( but i think i will use a mix of yours above and this. I definitly don't use what i wanted to use and overtight ) 1. check the yoke for the backlash before you take it apart you can get a good feel for it by rotating back and forth softly . kind like rocking...

for my understanding: I do NOT block the yoke avoiding to turn? Everything is loose? I thought I block the axles ( E brake on discs ) or making a tool to block the yoke from rotating to measure the torque of the nut. Do I understand something wrong?

yes, thats what i want to try. But in our metric world i have never seen a beam type torque wrench. So i do use a click type and start with 100 ft/lbs and add 5 and add 5 and add five until the nut starts moving. So that will be my torque setting for later. what do you think?

anybody did this here before? Is there a way to find out the actual Torque the nut has on the yoke? I know it has a crush sleeve. Don't want to crush it more because of over tightening.

the r154 is from Toyota Supra Turbo and uses the same housing as the Dakota tranny. Just different Bell and better ratios. Had it several years behind my 340 and now behind my 6.1 Hemi... there is a lot of info here. Use the search

I had ;)

the pipe routed between the starter, torsion bar was the problem. With the big 143 tooth flywheel it had no space.

No headder issues with the TTI and HEMI. Had some troubles finding a starter. But the cheap 5.7 HEMI truck starter slipped in perfectly. With the 340 it was a nightmare. But I used a very cheap pair headders from unknown brand. Duh, brutal denting. :D

this is a really nice ford tranny. Available for USD 300 like the R154? :D

Hi :) Any questions? Remember I made this a few years ago and there is more on the market today. clutch I used centerforce dual friction. The plate is from a company called advanced adapters. SB diameter with Toyota splines. well, if you have the link to moparts it is all written there...

true. I had this set up which came with the other parts those days. It is all in one, slave-lines-master. It worked well until it started leeking. And here in germany I cant simply go to a parts store :(. So I searched and found this wilwood/jeep stuff which works perfectly. And it is nicer...

I'm using now a wilwood master w/ the angled mount from the dakota. Way nicer and shorter. Pushrod is easy to make. Just a threated rod. Slave is from a modern jeep cherokee. All new and cheap. Even for me.. :) > see the thread about mounting a master high in the 4 speed forum here...

yes, a spare 3rd member would be cool. Toyota had on the Turbo Supra a 4.10 rear. But those engines are living in the high end of the rpm band. So 3.55 is the allrounder and you are guessing 3.91 is too short? I never drove above 230 km/h. The engine has still potential above that. A lot I...

hm, currently I'm asking myself to what gears I should swap in my 8 3/4. 1 have 27" tires, 3.23 behind a stock carurated 6.1 Hemi/5speed (Toyota). Gear Ratios First 3.251 Second 1.955 Third 1.310 Fourth 1.000 Fifth 0.753 This is great for long distances (Autobahn High speed)...