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Thanks for the info! I just might have to revisit this idea...

Okay, that's weird. I have given serious thought to doing exactly that! There's an army surplus store down the road from me that has cables that adjust via a knob that you turn that I think would fit the bill nicely. I just wasn't sure if it's a good idea to actively adjust the pressure. If...

What gasket are you using?

Maybe you should wire that lever back. :) Super easy. Takes like, 2 minutes under the car.

This is how I ran mine as well. A few hundred miles in and no issue at all.

Thanks for the clarifications younggun! :-)

It just boils down to preference. Do you want to pull the shifter toward you to shift up, or do you want to push it away? Would you rather have neutral next to 3rd, or 1st? The reverse schpiel is a non-issue for aftermarket shifters. You're not going to dump it in reverse on accident. I did...

retroboy: Like badsport said, you can toss the linkages and just wire the kd lever all the way back. I just used some bailing wire. And if you go with an aftermarket shifter, you can do away with the shift linkages too! (I installed a Hurst promatic 2 ratchet shifter) if you do decide to...

Awesome. Thanks guys!

The 904 is easy to rebuild. I did mine with zero transmission experience and it went just fine. They're very simple bits of machine.

This has been bugging me ever since I did a manual valve body conversion and installed a Hurst ProMatic shifter. I tried driving out the roll pin at the lever pivot, but was worried about breaking something else by hammering too hard. Anybody know how to remove it? ('72 dart custom sedan)

I did install the TC I got from Pat Blais and I am very happy with it. Along with the converter, I did a full rebuild of my 904, installed a trans-go tf-3 full manual valve body, Tru-cool m7b cooler plumbed with stainless braided ptfe lines, and a Hurst Pro-Matic ratchet shifter. Feels like a...

That's the plan, but the old one is in two pieces. Was hoping to get the size to avoid eye-balling. I guess it's not all the critical though now that I think about it.

Anybody know the o-ring size for the speedometer gear housing seal? (The big, outer one) Nobody local has the part and I was hoping I could just get a correctly sized o-ring to do the job short-term.

Awesome. Thanks! :)

Just want to double check before cutting any braided line. I think the front-most fitting is the "out" and the rear is the "return". Is that right? Thanks, ~Rev.

Back when I had my 300zx, this was a common problem that was caused by transmission fluid getting past the seal and into the cable. Not sure that can be the cause with TFs though.

+1 It's easy!

Thanks fishy. That was my thinkin'too. Good to have it affirmed. :)

Got my new cooler yesterday and have been trying to decide how to mount it. Does it matter what direction the in/out are facing? I want to mount it so that the lines come in from the side. Edit: Nevermind. I found on the tru-0cool website that orientation doesn't matter.

Came back to town after the weekend. Greeted by a substantial puddle. :( I have a cooler on the way, but I'm beginning to think the stock cooler being restrictive isn't the cause of my leak. Starting to feel like pulling the trans back out is unavoidable. Just typing that hurts a little...

Don't worry, you guys will see it here first. :)

I'm pretty much guaranteed constant triple digit weather every summer where I live and rarely even see frost in the dead of winter. I'm thinking that I will still try out one of these heat sink tube coolers later this year. It's driving me nuts that nobody seems to have any real, empirical...

Went with an m7b. Found a pretty good deal on amazon with free shipping and it seems everyone has something good to say about them. Still want to hear first-hand accounts of the heat-sink ones out of curiosity though. :)

And cracked, I saw your suggestion for the m7b on another thread. Do you plumb them on their own (not using the radiator cooler)?

The derale coolers have fins on the inside as well. I've spent a couple hours scouring the net and simply cannot find any BTU ratings. It's kind of odd because from what I can tell, derale is a reputable company. The most common application I've found is guys using then in fiberglass body...

Also, what do y'all think about this one? Link

I'm not asking about the stacked plate style. These are what I was curious about:

Just ordered a traditional tube/fin style cooler. Don't wanna play guinnea pig on this. haha Still interested in people's input if you've used a heat-sink style before though.

With mine, I was told by TransGo to wire the kickdown lever all the way back. So I got rid of all the linkages and just wired the lever. Not sure if it's the same for reverse pattern though.