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So... I got it running. You ready for this 67?... I, uh. Well... I cleaned the terminals and clamps. Now, I did check them and they honestly looked fine to me. No white build up or anything. But they weren't nice and shiny. So I though to myself, "Self, ya know 67dart273 really put a lot of...

Yeah. They're clean and tight.

So, I got it started by jumping. That definitely points to the battery, doesn't it?

Thanks 67Dart. I'll go down your checklist after I have the battery tested and report back!

Thanks for the tip Jos! I'm terrible when it comes to batteries. I thought >12v was good-ish? I've heard about shorted cells but didn't know how to test for them. I think I'll just take the battery in and have them test it. It is a 2+ year old walmart battery so I wouldn't be surprised if it's...

'72 Dart Custom Sedan. Alright, this one is baffling me and I'm not sure where to start looking. Last Monday, I parked my car after coming home from school. I've had no issues that lead up to this. Tuesday morning, I go out to my car and it wouldn't start. The dome light was on, and...

So... I'm.. I'm retarded. After cleaning up the contacts and hooking everything up, I tried to start it again to no avail. Then I got to thinking that I've been using ether to start it. Now, in my defence, I could have sworn it started of it's own volition before I had it toed to my house...

Single coil ballast. And I just looked up pertronix instructions and they show the pickup hooked directly to the coil. There's a little corrosion on the 5 pin thing. Mine appears to be factory original (small box on an L bracket with the roundish thing against the firewall (passenger side)). Or...

Hmm. So i've been looking over all the diagrams and I'm kinda confused. The PO converted my ignition to electronic. But the two wires coming out of the distributor go to the coil. That's how it was when I bought it and it's always worked and I never thought (or knew to) question it. All the...

It's a 2 pin ballast. I'll take a look at those diagrams tomorrow after work. Thanks!

I have tried jumping the resistor and it didn't work. I've got en electronic dist.

Well, I tried running a wire straight to the resistor from the battery and still have the same problem. Any chance it could be the ignition box kajigger? How would one test that?

It sputtered when it died initially, just like it had run out of gas. But now, it just stops when the key goes to "run". No sputter at all. I'm fairly certain that it's not the ballast resistor since jumping across it did nothing. I've got power on both sides of the resistor, power @ the...

Tried jumping across the resistor to no avail. Gonna look up coil resistances and check that after I run and grab a new multimeter.

I've got power at both sides of the ballast. My multimeter took a dive and I haven't replaced it yet. I'll try jumping the resistor. If that doesn't work, I'll have the coil tested. Thanks for the input so far! :)

'72 Dart 318, 904, stock ignition Had my car die on the way to work yesterday. I thought I'd run out of gas, so I pushed to a gas station and filled up but now it seems that it's an ignition issue. The car will fire while cranking, but quits when the key is in "run". I checked for power...

It doesn't go through the firewall. It just goes from the resistor, across the engine bay, and ends at the cut on the passenger side behind the head.

One end goes to the resistor, and the other end is cut. I'm heavily leaning toward it being something that was removed since I can't find any other cut wires. It could have shorted to the aluminum intake, or the pass side head. Whatever it was for, it seems that it was not needed since...

Checked along the bellhousing first thing. Nada. If it's for factory choke heater, it would make sense, because that stuff is gone. I'm guessing that the PO just chopped the wires, and I just happen to have been lucky that it didn't short out until today when I was paying attention with the...

hah! That probably would help, eh? I even told myself to include that in the OP, but forgot. Doh! It's a '72 dart custom sedan. 318, a-904

Still have power. I cut the roasted wire and the car starts and runs fine.

pretty sure our '68 olds has one.

Finally got the new shifter in and the freshly rebuilt trans filled with fluid. Went to start and after cranking a couple times, I saw a bunch of smoke! Pulled the key and ran around to see what happened. One wire that comes from the resistor had totally roasted. Here's a picture of...

I've noticed this in my '72 a couple times as well. Hopefully someone can explain.

It gets hot enough to spew coolant. I was thinking it has more to do with the old factory radiator without a shroud and the crappy chrome aftermarket fan. The next "big" thing on the list is a better radiator and electric fans.

Thanks Bad Sport. I think I understand now. :) Won't have anyone to help me get it to tdc until Tuesday so I guess the dart will have to stay parked for a couple days. Just to make sure, my new order of opperations should be: Make sure timing mark is correct. Set timing ~20*. Adjust the...

I know the idle is adjusted at the carb. But it also changes a bit with ignition timing doesn't it? I don't know a whole lot about this sort of thing so I thought maybe the idle might be an indicator as to how close the timing is. Should I bring the idle up with the carb while the ignition is...

Yep.

Double checked everything. One mistake I made was @ 30* the idle is sitting at 600. I brought it back to 22*. The idle drops to 520, but it still idles fine and fires on the first crank. Should I try advancing past 30* and see if I can get the idle up, leave it at 30*, leave it at 22*, or try...

cannucky: Wouldn't double pick-up cause the timing marks to be jumpy? It appears pretty rock-solid, but I'll check again this evening. Edit: And I don't know what it is while driving. It doesn't ping. How would I check that?