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Great point on the heat factor @J-c-c! Not being a certified welder, your input is excellent. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and teaching me something I didn't know.

Those two comments above both depict why it's important to hire experienced people who stand behind their work.

Thank you! I typically avoid coating used aluminum wheels like The Plague -- people love their Armor All and tire wet products too much; being silicone based, the stuff leaches into the metal and only a caustic, EPA-controlled chemical called B17 will remove it. B17 will also eat the concrete...

I'm more inclined to blame Eastwood for its "Start Your Own Business for $100!" marketing ploy fifteen years ago, and more recently all the rookie Youtube videos / internet posts showing that even a slightly trained monkey can do it. That all combined into a total and complete market saturation...

Actually powder is MORE flexible than paint. The only reason powder would crack and peel is due more to insufficient prep work (i.e. just roughing them up with a ScotchBrite pad versus media blasting), a failure to clean the metal after blasting, and/or under- or over-curing it. Just like...

Al Debevek does if an old Hemi is in your plan. Fantastic work. Old school guy, no website, just a land line. 715-267-7141

I'm happy to share some stuff if you decide to take that off ramp, but the industry is already obviously overloaded with hundreds who fell for Eastwood's "Start your own business for $100!" marketing ploy years ago. They practice on people's parts and close six months later when the rework...

Just for clarification and to dispel rookie rumors, it takes much longer than that. The cure time starts when the part reaches 400 degrees, not the oven. It still won't adversely affect the metal though.

The ones I've restored were pot metal. @65dartman has one of them and will probably remember.

I know exactly what the problem is. The shaft and finish piece are steel, but that little collar is pot metal. I'm frankly surprised all it did was warp -- you got very lucky.

This may help you. I've relied on it for years here in my powder coating shop. Mopar Chassis Color Chart Legend: BC: Body Color GB: Gloss Black SB: Semi-gloss Black CI: Cast Iron Gray N: Natural Steel or Aluminum MP: Manganese Phosphate CC: Color Code (*): Some Mopar core supports are body...

When they show up here with leftover bushing parts, I just use the torch, set them on fire and let it burn. It's a time and knuckle saver. But I'm just violent like that. :D

A good coater will protect all the threads for you. If it's done right, all you'll need to do is take them out of the box, drool a little and install them on your car.

Amen to that last paragraph especially with respect to leaf springs. Coil springs are fine. Powder is much more flexible than paint. I would NOT recommend powder coating leaf springs. Over time, friction and flex will damage the finish to the point that there will be sloppiness between the...

I have a handy Mopar Chassis Color Chart I use all the time. Sadly I can't seem to grab the link here on my phone but you can find it on the FBBO site under the "Paint Colors For Front Suspension" thread at my Post #6 from February 6, 2014. Wish I could be more help with the link -- sorry...

With all due respect Granny, powder coating is nowhere near a 1/16th of an inch thick if it's done right. It's only a few mils ... which doesn't amount to much "wiggle room."

Thank you Buschi! :-D I can't believe it's already had over 2,000 views just since its debut on December 22. (The old intro didn't get 3,000 views in two years LOL ... it must be the amazing tunes.)

Thank you B-NA$TY! :-D I'll look forward to it.

Thanks for the mention Rob! The chrome-replica powder I use is called "Super Chrome." It would probably be fine for a differential cover as long as the rest of the axle assembly isn't already chromed. It looks good on its own but I can't recommend its use on parts that are visually close to...

Oh boy, here we go again ...

Thank you sir! < curtsey > I love what I do around here. :-D

:-D ... as the tide of prior PSC customers come out of the woodwork to dispute the content of the last post ........ Some shops aren't the same as all the others. It's the same as any other industry -- you get what you pay for.

Gloss rates vary from manufacturer and between similar powders. They go all the way up to 100%. burdar, if you choose a qualified coater who's familiar with automotive parts, you shouldn't have any issues when you install the finished parts. Masking areas to be left bare and plugging...

You'll want about a 60% gloss rating.

Here's the last four sections ...

Perhaps this will help? I do Mopar parts restorations among other things and this is the list I refer to. I have no idea where I got it but I've had it for years; no one has ever suggested that it was less than accurate. It's on an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of paper and one photo didn't cut it...

I hate reading horror stories like yours, and most especially reading about them HERE.

Uhhhh, my powder coating shop is called PSC. :-D The one you're wanting to contact is PST, Performance Suspension Technology. They're also a FABO Vendor and will offer you a substantial discount too. Look for their ad on the right side of your page.

Thanks wazoo! You saved me some time digging through old threads to make sure I had my facts straight before addressing TrailBeast's comment. :-D You get a big muahhhhhhhhhhhhhh tonight.

wazoo ... I remember you from the last time. :-D I have to agree with your advice and once again defend my earlier position that no matter who did the work, the powder coating process was NOT to blame for the defects no matter what the company rep said.