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I was thinking I might do that. Pulling it was easy enough, I drilled a small 1/16" pilot hole in the center pin, put a tiny screw in it and pulled it out with pliers. I was able to get the main piece out without damage but it is old a brittle so I'm not sure that I will try to use it again...

Ok that makes sense, thanks! I'll see what I can come up with for a solution..

Trying to break this thing down to get it cleaned up and painted. The FSM says to bend the plastic backup switch "operating lever" and that it can't be re-used. So, either this is something I can go buy a replacement for and just haven't seen before, or is there a trick to get it out without...

If I'm understanding and the shocks are hitting the new brace, I'd think you'd need to notch it appropriately and weld in bits to patch/box it back up.

Again it has no effect on the placement of the axle on the spring. No measurable weight differences. No effect on hookup. Gotcha. I thought people were moving the axle on the springs, sounds like you're saying move the spring hanger back farther.

That's one of the reasons that I didn't do this one mine. I'm guessing you're losing the "Mopar leaf benefit" but I guess you can run Lakewood bars like the other guys then.

My '67 V8 car had that, I tossed it in the parts bin, couldn't see how it would do anything for me.

I think you'd have a hard time selling most of the pieces by themselves, much less the whole thing, even at half that price. But, you never know until you put it out there.

Most cars I can manage to wedge a bottle jack between the UCA and LCA. Pops the ball joint every time!

Rebuilt my factory manual box with new seals, bearings and Mopar lower ratio gear that I got for a steal. Pretty skinny tires, seems easy enough to me to turn but the lady didn't enjoy it much especially with the smaller Grant wheel :P I like it though, and I want to say that doing it myself I...

Honda's been doing this a long time, enthusiasts seem to love it.

I did, and it needed filing probably because I had to beat on it a little. I hate to admit to doing that, but without that master spline it wasn't going on otherwise.

I forgot about this thread! Something interesting to note, my Mopar Performance 20:1 gear did not have the "master spline" on it, but splined the same all the way around. Also, my problem was I did need to file on the inner lip of the coupler to allow the shoes and spring to slide in. It's...

Gee whiz Beave... well that explains it. I guess I should read the manual instead of just look at the pictures, lol. However, this gives me hope! Maybe I can get that thing on there tonight. Thanks guys, FABO always doing me right.

Maybe I'm just dumb but this thing beat me up for hours today, never got it together. 67 Dart, manual steering...coupler is on the box, which is bolted to the k frame. Trying to get the column shaft in but I absolutely cannot get the little pieces and spring to slip into the coupler, seems...

I used the hot water method and they were fairly easy to install. I always use poly over rubber whenever possible, since it will last forever. So tired of replacing worn out rubber on old cars all these years!