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Yes there are 2, I meant the faded one in the front thats been cut. I see blue, silver, brown also. But it looks like resistor s have at least 4 bands from the charts. Maybe a faded black band at the bottom? I am also assuming the blue band is the “first digit”? I think 680 is correct does the...

Can anyone identify this resistor value, I tried the calculator on the interweb but couldnt seem to get an exact match. Its from a Dixco tach

Had my alternator tested it puts out 40 amps. Works great. I tried again and used a jumper wire to take the place of the green wire. Same result.

I did the first test using factory blue wire. Then if you read later I did it again using the jumper as you suggested. hopefully this weekend Ill have more time to continue testing.

With all connectors off green wire had continuity from connector (VR) to connector (Field) Hope that makes sense.

The ammeter moved with lights on(I should have thought of that) about the thickness of the needle, maybe a needle and a half toward discharge. Battery went from 12.61 to 12.36. The alternator came with car. Car was completely disassembled when I got it. I wired in new VR using wires from old VR...

My thoughts exactly. But it just goes to regulator. May bring alternator to get tested the local shop is pretty good.

The only time I find draw is with the key on and the green field wire hooked up. I've been testing a lot over the last week with key on for extended periods of time with the draw and battery only went from 12.65 to 12.56 with no drain overnight.

My alternator

Thanks for all your help. Hopefully Ill get more time this weekend. Would like to get this registered this summer!

I tried key on and off with everything hooked up, I saw no movement on dash ammeter. I tried Amp test again with jumper had about 2.4A I tried spinning alternator by hand in both directions Amps bounced around a little only a couple of tenths.

Back in the garage... With the key on I set the ammeter to 10A. If I remove green terminal and run meter between terminal and ground I get 2.12A if I run it to battery neg. It's 2.3Amps. Does that help? Is that the correct place for the meter?

Did not check for amperage yet. But will tomorrow. Can I set up the ammeter between the field terminal and green wire?

I did go thru every wire from the battery following the whole path. With the battery at 12.60 volts, the voltage will only drop to 12.56 at the coil and field with key on and the green field wire disconnected.

Have not tried that yet, but was thinking of it.

Battery is brand new.

Between the 2 field terminals I got 10.6 on the 200 ohm setting. There was no continuity between either field terminal and the case.

I have electronic ignition also....HEI and the ballast resistor has a wire soldered across with no resistor.

Im sorry I did not mention in first post I have an alternator with the 2 field terminals and a later electronic voltage regulator. It is the squareback type.

I was having a problem with my lancer starting for the first time. I checked everything and everything is fine. What I did find was when the key was on but not running the voltage would draw down to 11.7V. When cranking was even worse. I removed the field wire + (blue) and the car started right...

The motor really runs good on 8-10 degrees of advance. I was hoping with the 26 degrees of mechanical and the 8-10 of initial to be approx. 36 deg. total. At least that is what the plan was. It does have lighter Ford springs its all in by 2200 right now

I didn't weld mine. I found a factory 13 degree arm. And I measured the slot itself without the pins in it.

I did not lock the plate while the can was out. Didnt think of it. But when I put the vac. can back in I had the exact same reading.

Just bumping this up to see if anyone had any new thoughts. I disassembled the dist. again and checked everything everything seems good. Hooked it up and the same problem. with timing set at 0 and advanced plugged. when I rev the engine I get 37 degrees of total with only a 13 degree mechanical...

I just read on another sight that if youre wires to th pickup coil are reversed it could make it look like you have 10 - 15 degrees more timing than you actually have. Has anyone ever heard this. If so would this be true with my HEI?

No it seems to move smoothly.

No its still there.

I rebuilt my slant six dist. the same way and it ran fine. 26 Degrees exactly. The Dist. is real tight its from a 32,000 mile motor it looks and feels like new.

That is the measurement I used (.445)and they were on within one thousanth. I don't know what else could cause this. Any help I could get would be greatly appreciated...Thanks....

Hi everyone - I rebuilt my distributor with new springs,vac. can and 13 degree mechanical advance. When I set my initial to 0 deg. then run up my rpms to 2100 I show 35 deg. on my dialback timing light. When I set the initial to 10 deg. I show 45 deg. at 2100. I checked the balancer and it is...