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Looking at the Transtar website, it appears they sell Hayden and Tru Cool. That looks like the Tru Cool H7B (I think) suggested earlier in this thread. Thanks for sharing.

I thought it was. I was just concerned about using a cooler with 1/2" inlets. I mentioned previously that I am unaware of the pressure/volume/flow from the trans and didn't want to make matters worse using a cooler with "too big" inlets/outlets.

I was thinking the same thing but wasn't sure. The Tru Cool H7B appears to be the best bang for the buck option. Thank you for the info. <><

Hmmmm.....I like that one even better. I was thinking of going 6AN because it was closer to the original (or slightly larger) line size - would the 1/2" inlet be too much of a difference in size? Would going to an 8AN line be better? I have no idea of the flow/volume/pressure of the trans lines....

Hayden 689...

Thanks. I looked it up and you're right - same size/features as the B&M. Still like the Hayden - a bit larger core and has the 6AN fittings installed. Thank you for the info.

Thank you. Yah, I want to run 6AN braided.

Thanks - nice install!

That would be great. I found it for around $70 and like it because it has 6AN fittings. Most of the others have 10AN and would have to get different fittings. Thanks for the pics and help. <><

That one is around $70 and the same design/size as what I've been looking at so any feedback would be appreciated.......my build will take a little more than 2 more weeks......more like 2 more years. I was thinking/hoping that by 50 I could drive it.....that was 4 years ago.

I think the B&M has 1/2" npt female threads. Have you been running it for a while with no issues?

The bottom pic looks like a B&M Super....

That'll be another question I ask the FABO gurus........

......and chances are.....you're correct.....

Don't have one.....yet. I may be doing it "backwards" but the engine & trans will be built last. While I'm saving for the $$ stuff, I do little (less expensive) projects to keep the fire burning. Recently completed my Moser fab 8.75 w/ Trutrac & 4.10 gears - ladder bars & coilovers. My Gerst...

Fabbing up a "cool" looking aluminum bracket. I have an aluminum radiator and fear vibration and ruptured tubes.....

I Thank you. I've read many of your posts/replies and that's just the "confirmation" I was looking for. Based on price (and my budget) the eBay one was looking pretty good - I guess I was just looking for input from people that tried them and had bad results. Thanks again. <><

Do you think it's worth a try to get an eBay cooler? $50 - $60 for a 25 - 30 row stacked plate one. The Summit Racing branded one looks "identical" and is about $110. I imagine they're "all" made overseas.....

Thanks - that was my plan. I have the B&M aluminum deep pan that has the port for a temp sending unit. What brand cooler are you using?

Hello all. Looking to get a trans cooler & wanted to know what you guys are using. I've read that the plate style cools better and was considering the B&M Super Cooler. Going with the biggest I can afford - at least 11"x8". I also looked at a Summit Racing branded one and several eBay offerings...

The bracket that came with the Street Bandit is part number 10497. It bolts the cable to the rear of the pan. The bracket that pinch bolts to the valve body selector is not available separately (as far as I could find) but appears to be the same one that comes in the bracket set part number...

Update......if anyone gives a rat. Got a good deal on a magnum grip Stealth Pro Bandit shifter. Put a reverse manual gate plate in and used the 727 brackets from the Street Bandit. Rear exit cable from the shifter, rear entry cable into the trans, cool looking shifter......done.

I'm aware that the Stealth Pro Bandit is listed for a Powerglide, however, it appears to me that it is an "identical" shifter as the Street Bandit with is compatible with a 727. They use the same gate plates so swap a plate and viola??? I may have been wrong in thinking that somebody has done it...

The 727 trans bracket that comes with the Street Bandit mounts to the rear of the trans and the cable enters from the rear. That's one of the biggest selling points for me. I've had shifters in the past that ran the cable to the front of the trans and they would always go into meltdown mode.

I see the misunderstanding - the 81120 is the Pro Ratchet. The Pro Bandit - 81113 - is a rear exit shifter (and I'm guessing, a rear trans entry) like the Street Bandit - 80797.

Is the forward mounting cable due to the reverse valve body? What cable bracket did you use?

Want to use a Stealth Pro Bandit in my Dart with a 727 & reverse manual valve body but don't know if it'll work. B&M makes the Street Bandit for the 727 and it appears to be the same shifter body - and it works with the reverse valve body....... It costs a good $450 so I thought I might run it...

I was thinking that the o ring seal would be good enough but figured the seals came with the package so I thought I'd use them. The National 8695S has the same dimensions - 2.69 OD and 1.5 ID. Thank you.

The outside diameter is the same as a factory seal but it's the inside diameter that I'm concerned with. Going to measure the axle this evening & see what my measurement is. Thanks.