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I got one from a 92 dodge dakota. Been in the car for 4 years now and its been great! I got it at NAPA.

Go with whatever the specs are, I run a .576 lift solid and it calls for 16/16, so that's what its gets.

Nope they fit nice. It only leaks alone the pushrod when the valve is closed and there is no pressure on the cup from the lash.

I actually didn't think about that. I dont think so, I believe that my pushrods are solid. They are custom smithbrothers pushrods. I know the rocker arms have a hole in the pushrod cup that would send oil to the rockers. I'll have to look into that. When I was priming the motor before...

Yeah they have two bushings with a big space in between them. So could this be having an impact on oil pressure then?

Thats what I was thinking too. Well it usually idles at 1000, but goes down a bit in gear. So at 1000 its about 35 PSI. It oils through the heads and then the shaft. The rockers oil the tip and the pushrod cup. its not a trickle, they are flooded lol Would restrictors up top help?

I know this is asked a lot, and a lot are probably going to say everything is fine, but I still feel like it should be higher. The motor is a 360, rebuilt last year, stock crank and rods with ARP rod bolts, KB pistons etc. Has a Lunati solid roller, 245 @50 and 580 lift with MRL lifters...

Did you verify that the harmonic balancer mark is accurate using a piston stop? You could be reading the correct timing but may actually only be running a few degrees.

I kept everything te same besides the emissions stuff. I took out the charcoal canister, plugged the vent line under the hood and added a vented gas cap. So technically I've only been driving it with a vented cap, and it still had this problem. Not really sure if that's the correct way to do...

I was assuming the carb goes empty when the fuel stops pumping and the engine is using up the fuel that is left in the carb. The AFR is exactly where it always is, doesn't get rich or anything. It just goes lean and the engine starts to stumble, it all happens within about 10 seconds. When...

To clarify, it was running perfectly fine, and then the AFR gauge went instantly lean and it shut off. I put in all new fuel lines, fuel sender, steam cleaned tank, fuel pump, fuel filter etc, so everything fuel wise is brand new and it ran all last summer without an issue. So I don't think it's...

Why would it run fine otherwise? I thought that before though and cleaned everything, and the fuel filter was nice and clean too. dropped the tank and cleaned everything so there isn't anything in the tank. Yep new cap and vent is working as it should.

I've had the problem twice now, and I don't really know what to do about it. This has happened twice now. The first time it happened was last year just before I put the car away for the winter. I was driving it, everything was running perfectly and then the AFR gauge would slowly lean out...

I second this. I was having the same dilemma last year and ended up putting in a lunati solid roller. Best decision I ever made. Sounds pretty cool with solid roller too, can definitely tell whats in there. Ive put about 4k miles on it with zero problems, monitored lash and it hasnt changed...

I'd keep the 904. They are lighter and take up less power than a 727. I have a 904 with pretty much just a shift kit behind a 425 ish HP 360 and it's just fine. But yeah, the 7 1/4 has to go, those break by looking at them too hard lol

This is what I did, works well and is really easy

I don't know if it would be your problem. But a few months ago I was driving my dart and it randomly started driving funny, I was driving home so I was going to take a look when I got home. The idle changed and it ran funny in traffic. Before it did that the oil pressure dummy light started...

I have the milodon on my 360 I believe. Had to notch out the k frame a bit, but that took 10 minutes. It sits completely flush with the k frame, so you don't have to worry about ground clearance. Run a windage tray too if you can.

I run a breather and PCV on my hot 360. A PCV system really doesn't hinder performance and it helps your engine out. No matter what you will have a little bit of blowby, and although a lot will go out the breather, not all of it will. And a by product of combustion is always water, so there...

My 360 used to rattle on statup as well. It had comp lifters. Mine made 75 cold and around 35-40 at idle with 30w oil if I remember though. I re-did it with a solid roller now so I "fixed" that issue LOL

Although its still within spec, for reference my 360 makes about 75 cold and 35-40 at hot idle, and 60 psi when cruising over 2k RPM with 20-50. But it has 2 thou bearing clearances and pressure fed solid roller lifters so that bleeds off some pressure.

Get MRL lifters, Im running the solid rollers in my 360. Dropped in and fit perfectly. But you have to have the heads off to install them. I dont think there are any retrofit lifters that you can install with the heads on.

Just for reference when I start my 360 at room temp in my garage it's at about 72 psi at 1000 rpm. Then when it warms up it goes down to about 35-40. I have a Lunati solid roller and it doesn't have the grooves either.

im running comp ultra pro magnum roller rockers on my 360 with a good sized solid roller so they handle the extra spring pressures. If the engine was just rebuilt before I wouldn't touch the bottom end, but I would figure out why the problems occurred. Other than that I'd change out the cam and...

Yeah they are nice lifters, and I didn't do any oil mods. I know some people say to bush the lifter bores, but I didn't do that, or anything else. I just dropped them in, setup the valve train and have been driving ever since. Another downside/positive depending on how you look at it is their...

My vote is for solid roller! I have one in my 360. It's .580 lift and [email protected]. Car has about 10.5:1 compression with eddy heads, no idea about the power but with 4:10 is hauls. The throttle response is insane, really happy with it and would do it again in a heartbeat. I'm running MRL...

I didn't think about the cam eccentric, and yeah I kinda figured that. Well I guess next oil change I'll make sure to use an oil with a bit more zinc in it. But alternatively since this oil has maybe 15 miles on it, could I keep this oil and add some break in oil that is used for flat...

I know flat tappet cams and oil with zinc pretty much go hand in hand, but what about solid roller cams? I hear that you don't really need it from some and that its good to run by others. The question is in relation to my 360 with a solid roller. I ran brad penn 15w40 in it for about 2k miles...

I have the cam a few steps smaller than that and I absolutely love it! Its in a pretty basic 360 (If you can call a solid roller basic lol). It makes great power and sounds pretty good. Just make sure you get everything setup perfectly. Solid rollers need to be perfect otherwise you can have...

.30 over and stock stroke , solid roller 245 @.050 and .580 lift. Pulls really strong, not sure on the power output but Id say its over 400. First and second gear are useless lol