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Yep, Scarebird has flown. :( They're shutting down after selling their remaining inventory.

Did you replace the RF flex hose?

Jeep Cherokees used 8.25" axles to 2001. (Only Cherokees WITHOUT ABS used it-with ABS, they used a Dana 35.) The vast majority had 3.55 gears-4.0/5-speed used 3.07 gears. A handful with the Up-Country suspension or tow package used 3.73s. I think 4-cylinder/5-speed used 4.11 gears. There was...

It's twice the cost or more of a stock plastic-cap MC. They're <$40.

Pretty sure MP still offers an adjustable brake pushrod. Best guess: there's something wrong with your MC.

Any booster from a disc F-body or late A-body should work. May not be "correct", appearance-wise, but function should be fine. If you want to swap to the later (2-bolt, plastic reservoir) master cylinder, ask for a booster (and master cylinder) for a 79 Volare.

got a PN?

That's a big reason E-berg likes the larger bore-it mitigates pedal sink from heat, and makes "running out" of pedal less likely. (Bearing in mind: the car in question is a 550+hp road racer.) Might be easier to use the MP or AR adapter for the 2-bolt MC.

I know-Rick Ehrenberg LIKES the rock-hard pedal.

I THINK that the stock 80-82-ish D/B100 master cylinder is a 1.125" bore.

Did you bench bleed the MC?

Yes. It's that easy. Run a new line to the stock tee. Block the port on the tee to the rear. Make a new line to the stock rear line. Bleed the system. You're done. You can use ANY RWD master cylinder, 67 to at least the 90s.79+ needs the 2 to 4 bt adapter. You can use a disc MC with drums.

There is nothing you'll accept. You believe your kludge is better, and NOTHING will change your mind. Maybe it really is time to require any vehicle with altered suspension geometry be tested and signed off on by an engineer before permitting it on public roads.

You can use just about ANY disc master cylinder, from 67 to at least the 90s. 79-later (plastic caps) needs the 2 to 4 bolt adapter, 40 bucks. For stock look, 67-78 works. You probably know this, but do NOT use a drum MC with discs.

You do not need power brakes. However, you can-easily-upgrade what you have: use caliper brackets from a late 70s B/R body (most common on 2-doors and 79-81 R-bodies) and the late B-body 11.75" rotors. For years, this exact setup stopped Rick Ehrenberg's 500+HP, 150+MPH road-race Valiant. If...

Honestly...for the MC, it doesn't actually matter that much. You can use ANY disc master cylinder, from 1967 to at least the 90s. 1979+ needs the 2-bolt adapter, available from MP or AR Engineering. (Or probably eBay. Amazon, etc.)

This.

Rick Ehrenberg's Disc-O-Tech. Still the gold standard 35 years later. Master Power has spindles and caliper brackets, everything else is part store stuff. DISC-O-TECH: Stop on a dime If you insist on keeping the small-bolt-pattern wheels, you will need something less effective...Scarebird...

Any part store: ask for a booster and MC for a 74 Duster with disc brakes, you'll get the right one. If you want to swap to the later (plastic-cap, aluminum body) master cylinder, ask for booster and MC for a 1980 Aspen. As long as you have the right booster or use the MP 2 to 4 bolt adapter...

If you want the later (lighter, cheaper) master cylinder, a booster and master for a 79 Volare should work. If you have an earlier booster, you need the 2 to 4 bolt adapter. (Mancini and MP have them.) If so...ask for a MC for a 1980 Aspen.

IIRC, the 67 A-body was a carryover year...so yes, should bolt right in. (You need new brake lines, of course, but you know that.)

Sounds to me you need better pads!

Yes, I know...just wondering who has good ones and who has Chinesium! :(

1976 Feather Duster, stock BBP (manual) disc brakes. Needs calipers, because both bleeder screws are totally seized and will not budge for love or money. Who does a good job on re-man calipers, or has new ones that are NOT made in China?

It IS entirely standalone, Ehrenberg went into some detail about it in their tech articles. I'm surprised your 93 doesn't have it, honestly.

IIRC, their ABS stuff came from a B-van...though all the trucks (Ram, B-van, Dak) used the same system. The hydraulics are under the hood, the computer is behind the glove box (vans) or in the kick panel (Dak).

IIRC, ask for one for a 1976 Duster or 1977 Aspen with manual disc brakes and you'll get the right one.

Factory-engineered part and application, not a problem. (In fact, wasn't a 1967 A-body a carryover year aside from that?) A-bodies came with 3-point belts (as did other cars back to at least 1971)--and bad installation endangers only the car's occupants, unlike suspension or brakes.

I accept your concession.

Then you should have no problem getting a certified engineer to sign off on it! I do understand. And again: if that is the case, you should have no problem getting a certified engineer to sign off on it! I don't own an A-body...on my friend's FD, it will run stock-sized (185/75R14, I think)...