Picking a master cylinder for a 69 barracuda

-
Joined
Aug 4, 2019
Messages
2
Reaction score
1
Location
Beauty Ky
I have a 1969 barracuda that was a slant six base car. It’s been upgraded with front disc brakes and drum rears. I’m wanting to upgrade the master cylinder and add a brake booster. I’ve been looking at the right stuff kits and don’t know which one to choose. Also once I buy a kit, is there any other associated parts to buy with it? All the old parts were long gone when I got the car and I’d like a bolt in kit before I get started on brake lines
 
I'd recommend a Dr Diff Master and regulator. It's late model and won't look oem but works great. Have 1 in my B body with A body front discs. Never had a great pedal before. Feels great now.
 
Well, if you just look up the master cylinder and booster for a 1969 Barracuda with power disk brakes, they would bolt right in. Simple as that.
 
3FE0718D-C055-49D9-B4AA-0A7A82E33E20.png
554EBB4C-86FA-4A5A-A0D2-54B6191EFD51.png
 
If you want the later (lighter, cheaper) master cylinder, a booster and master for a 79 Volare should work. If you have an earlier booster, you need the 2 to 4 bolt adapter. (Mancini and MP have them.) If so...ask for a MC for a 1980 Aspen.
 
Correct boosters are getting rare and usually need a rebuild ($350). That said, I found one for my 1965 Newport on rockauto a few years ago for $75, but just lucky. A-bodies need the stand-off bracket with lever which you must source from a used car. I put one from a junkyard 1974 Dart slant on my 1965 Dart 273. Forgot why I didn't use that booster (too large?), instead used a junkyard one from a 1990's Intrepid, filing the bolt holes slightly and using nuts on both sides to tilt it up slightly to clear my aftermarket valve covers. I could install many 2-bolt Master Cylinders on that booster (not Intrepid since tilted reservoir). I used one from a late-1990's Breeze w/ ABS (2-ports dbl-flare), but a 1980's Dodge truck MC "should work". See my avatar. There was a full kit on ebay for $175 a few years ago, using a GM-style booster.
 
I don’t care about period correct so I wanted to get something that’s great functional wise and not super high. Plus I got confused with all sorts of bore sizes and other stuff and never saw a number one consensus of the go to with power booster and the block under.
 
The bore size affects the amount of juice yer throwing out. The smaller bore has better modulation, in my opinion, where a larger bore kinda shoots it all in.. Many others here can explain that better
 
-
Back
Top