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There are some strict rules on the forum that make it hard to just ask the members what a fair value is for something that you want to sell. I understand the reasons for them but the situation isn't ideal. The absolute ONLY thing good about the Moparts site is their sub forum of WIW topics...

I'm 4 years late to this but I saw a link to this topic from a guy at FBBO. I'm dealing with a random NO spark issue where my '70 Charger (big block, MP electronic ignition kit) will do one of the following: Run fine all the time. Run, then just die and have no spark...I wait a little bit and...

The Lunati in my 440/495 calls for .020 INT .022 EXH hot lash. I don't lash them hot most of the time, I do it cold and since I have aluminum heads, I set them .006 tighter which....once the engine warms up, result in .020 and .022. .014 INT, .016 EXH cold. It works. Block Material Head...

I had 3.91 but I don’t think this light car needs gearing that deep. The 2.76 I swapped in later was a huge letdown. I may settle with a 3.55 but I’ll need to swap the SG differential into it.

I have a stock 360 bottom end with '308 heads on it, a Weiand 4 barrel intake, 340 cam and simple, 2 1/4" exhaust. Holley 600 single feed too. The car idles like a 318 and makes plenty of power. It is actually a great performer that does impressive burnouts and flat out loves to run strong.

I absolutely agree that without it adjusted properly, failure can occur. I don’t know you nor your skill and level of experience so please forgive the grilling. I just see many people repeating things they hear without knowing nor understanding what they say. I’m guilty of that too, of course...

That is unfortunate. It also likely happened because the transmission was on it's way out anyway. At cruise with light throttle, the pressure from the linkage is barely applied.

This comment gets repeated quite often and it mostly comes from people with no direct experience from it, they just say what they have heard. While it is not good for the transmission to be operated without the linkage attached and functioning properly, it is not always a death sentence. Several...

I thought it was common for valves to rotate during operation. Did I have that wrong?

Crap....I didn't know about the difficulty of doing this. I don't have a press either... Nevermind!

I am helping a buddy do an A/C conversion in his car, it currently has a single groove pulley on a good alternator. I have some dual groove pulleys here. What is the process to change pulleys?

Some responses in this thread seem like they are from dudes that never turned a wrench. No, the engine does not have to come out. Those that suggest it are wrong. If the car is a 73 Dart Sport as shown in writing at the bottom of the original post, that is one of the easiest cars to do this...

When I went from a 318 to a 440 in my Charger in 2001, I had to learn the proper belt and pulley arrangements. My donor engine was from a 77 or 78 New Yorker with a smog pump and A/C so that arrangement wasn't going to work. I looked at cars at car shows to see what was right and was surprised...

No. I’m taking the advice of a trusted engine builder and machinist that makes his entire living from high performance engines. I wouldn’t just abandon his opinions for some random guy in a forum.

The resistance to going with the 1967 unit is entirely based on the idler arm mount. They are not as rigid but for easy cruising, it would be fine. The idler mount would probably only be a problem in a car with wide tires set up for cornering or on rough roads. The resistance to deflection is...

Whatever oil you use be careful to NOT use one with high detergents. Why? The zinc may cling to the parts but the detergent will then strip it off. I used some oil that did this.... 10 w 30, a great oil weight for many engines. Synthetic? Looking good! Seems great until you see that...

If you have a choice, look for a 1973-76 K member. They have a better motor mount design and the better steering linkage. A unit from 1968-72 is a good unit too. SKIP the 1967 model. It will work but the idler arm mount is inferior to the 1968 and later models. A 1973-76 model isn't hard to...

Rick Ehrenberg has stated about the same thing, 550-600 IF you fill the bottom half with some type of concrete to stiffen the block.

The dude's voice is a bit different from what I'm used to hearing but the real problem...... Vertical videos SUCK and the fix for it is so simple! Turn the damn phone sideways. WE all grew up with TVs and movie screens that were WIDER than they are tall, yet some dipshit invents a phone with a...

Why would they even test the readings? Here in Northern CA, they just do a scan of the computer, do the visual check of the equipment, look for smoke from the pipes and never do a sniffer test unless it is ran on adyno. Dyno testing is only done on pre OBD vehicles.

Here is an equally smart move:

The entire bullshit line about thin wall castings was pushed on us for too long. Larry Shepard should be kicked in the dick for repeating this blatant lie for all those years. Friggin idiot. 340s, 440s, all of them had plenty of cylinder wall thickness.

I lost a cam that was running fine for years.....not long after I switched to this oil: Seems like a winner, right? Synthetic, extra ZDDP .... Uhhh.... SN is a VERY high detergent oil. THIS is bad because the detergent wipes away the ZDDP. What sense does this make? Add ZDDP to the oil...

You really think that MILLIONS of small block Chevys that idled at 15 psi had zero oil pressure at the rods and rockers? They had idiot lights for oil pressure that tripped at 7-9 lbs. I had a 305 in an '84 C-10 that went 369,000 miles on oil pressure just like this. No engine lives that long on...

The numbers are fine. FALSE.

Careful, you spelled Edelbrock correctly. This tends to confuse a LOT of people.

I have a set of Mopar solids and Comp hydraulics...both new. This would provide a measure of comfort for break in...

Old thread but one that is worth reviving. Fresh rebuild on a 440-495. I just drained the oil and pulled the pan to fix a rear main leak and noticed the silver-gray shimmer in the oil. I always worry about cam and lifter failures so this had me worried. I used Driven Hot Rod oil, 10 w 40 and NO...

I know a guy like the OP. He busies himself pondering things like this. He once wanted to discuss the subject of sprinklers and how a model with a finer spray pattern may be detrimental due to the water droplets being so small, they might be lost to evaporation rather than watering the lawn...

The suggestion still applies. There are numerous amateurs with phones that do it wrong and are too ignorant to know the right way.