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Thanks Max. I just don't have any bezels to play with.

The reason I'm interested is that I never put a hole in my car covers for the fixed antenna to poke through and thought a power antenna would solve that. Of course power antennas were never available on A-bodies but I bought 2 of them at a swap meet a couple years ago. Probably most used on...

Replacement vac advance pods have different total advances available. There should be a number stamped on the flat linkage arm. IIRC it's advance in crankshaft degrees but don't quote me. Where's @Halifaxwhen you need him.

As part of a 5.7 Hemi swap in a 68 Barracuda, I'm relocating the battery to the trunk. I have a 2AWG cable more than long enough to make the trunk run forward. It is a good old Made in USA cable mfd by Kaiser Aluminum that is 6 strands wrapped around 1. From what I understand, the gauge should...

Just to clarify: In a typical older Mopar, the tail light and parking lights use dual filament bulbs. Can be clear or amber for the front depending on lens color. With light switch in first position, parking and tail lights are lit using the dimmer of the 2 filaments. These are the running...

I built an ICE years ago I'm gonna say using 5V as a control voltage is kind of an industry standard. Not just automotive. I built an IVR for my 68 25 yrs ago using a few parts from Radio Shack for less than $5. The chip thing was constant 5V. I'm a retired Micky though and not a Sparky so I...

As I understand it, and IIRC, the mechanical IVR takes the 12-14 V input and regulates it by going ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF ad infinitum. The average voltage that comes out is about 5V. Similar to the point type mechanical regulator on the firewall.

I got them out. Once I removed one it was clear how it was retained. Using the smallest jewelers screwdriver I bent the tangs on each side and the rest were easy. Maybe the picture will help someone in the future.

Ok, I'll try to be more aggressive.

1964 column. I need to remove the wires from this connector so I can disassemble the column. Using a couple of jewelers screwdrivers to probe from the front and back to hopefully disengage the metal connectors and slide them out. So far, no luck. Anyone have any tips?

Thanks for the reply. Mine is a convertible too. So it sounds like you pretty much duplicated the other 64 Plymouths wiring as shown in the first photo? Note the ground symbols in the schematic. I have LEDs for the dash but have not installed them yet as I didn't want to complicate things. As...

I replaced my tail lights and front parking lights last fall with LED's. Mostly because a "new" 1157 bulb in tail light was melting a rear lens from the heat. Flasher replaced using Slant Six Dan's recommendation. IIRC Federal something. I think the LED's are Phillip's Zeto? New LED's only go in...

Buying a rebuilt or "new" is a total crap shoot anymore. Used swap meet or junkyard parts are probably better. I found a local guy who rebuilds (and tests!) alternators and starters. For about 100 bucks I got my original upgraded alternator rebuilt and it looks like new! He upped the amperage a...

Asterisk indicates with tracer. DBL* Maybe Dana can figure something out with this. I'm mechanical, not a sparky.

I just happen to have a 73 Dodge service manual here on my coffee table. If that wire is considered DBL (dark blue) as opposed to LBL (light blue), that color runs rampant through a splice to various things. Rear window heater switch, electric choke, ballast resistor, dash pcb and ignition...

I agree with Demonracer. NOS would be best. In a pinch I go to NAPA. They seem to have higher quality parts than the typical chain stores. My local stores have gray-haired counter guys who have a lot of experience and they know the parts better than the young typical workers at other places...

If you mean the blade attached to the rotor that rides on the coil contact inside the distributor cap; wow, never heard of that happening. To start, I think you need to replace the cap, rotor and condenser with high quality parts and go from there. Is there evidence of the rotor tip coming in...

FWIW. The Pertronics triggers off the existing lobes on the distributor shaft that opens the points. These are rounded off ramps. Not as precise as the reluctor used in the Chrysler distributor which has a distinct sharp profile. Knowing how anal Chrysler engineers are, you can bet they tested...

I have a similar problem. 1964 Valiant convertible. There is a light attached to the bottom lip of the dash above the front passenger foot well. A new replacement bulb just will NOT go in the socket. I can't remember the number of the bulb at the moment. Is the problem the cheap Asian-sourced...

Fuse block. IIRC, approximately half are ignition switched and half are not. Check with a volt meter.

You're thinking of the IVR. (Instrument Voltage Regulator) It regulates the voltage to supply 5 bolts to the gauges. I bought all the parts needed from Radio Shack for less than $5. But that was over 10 yrs ago. It's been awhile but I think there is a simple IC, a heat sink and one more...

I've used the aftermarket repros on 2 cars without problems except I have a smallish battery in the Valiant and the threaded part of the shank didn't reach far enough down to clamp the battery. I cut The hook off and rebent it in a vise. You can't even tell it's shortened. The J hooks are too...

Need more info on the engine., carb, etc. Choke fully opening? Double check you installed the correct plugs.

I had the same issue with my /6 a couple weeks ago. Starter would not spin even with a jump. I suspected the battery was bad so I got a ride home and borrowed the battery from my daily driver and substituted it for the one it in the Valiant. Bingo! Instant start. You can easily remove your...

I bought a set from Van's Auto at the Mopar Nats this summer for $6. They look like they're the same as my 64 but I haven't had them cut yet.

Check with Evans Wiring. Family business. They will also customize a new loom to what you want. For instance, if you are converting to a Mopar Electrunic Ignition they will incrude the appropriate plug.

I've been casually looking for one of those. If you don't want it, I'd be interested in obtaining it. Thanks.

Most of the big chain auto parts stores rent tools for free. (Auto Zone, etc.) They have the puller that you need. At Auto Zone you "Buy" the puller and then you get your money back when you return it. Or take it to a shop and pay a few bucks and have them do it.

I first noticed this several years ago while waiting for a traffic light to change while I was behind a behemoth Cadillac SUV. The giant array of brake lights all lit up at once can be literally blinding. Another pet peeve of mine is front turn signal indicators that are right beside the head...

About 10 years ago I put one of these from Auto Zone in my 1968 cuda when the original fried the points.The voltage remains more stable with one of these. Wow I paid about $18 back then so it's gone up in price...