Search results for query: *

That 7 series box shold have a timing retard if starting is an issue. My al3 had one but I never needed it with my cam that was almost the same size. I did spin the motor over with the fuel pump on before flipping the ingnion switch on.my msd distributor was also locked out.

Cool news that is who i was going to get my crank and rods from. He is a great guy to talk on the phone with. Young did you get the crank staight from him or a vendor?

let us know what the builder thinks of that crank. I am about to buy one and it sure would be nice if the say it was good and require little to no work

I just talked to my engine building friend. Don't know if its true or not but he said SCAT and Eagle cranks are made from Argentina steel and possible made there. He said thinks the are hard as hell and the eagle unit may even balance better. He also told me the cost to get mine fixed up would...

A mopar rod is out. I cant find one short enough. I dont wanna go to a bigger stroke i actually would like to go a tad smaller like a 4.05 to 4.10

No im fine with running a China crank. Just wanted to know if i could turn my 4340 4.15 rb crank down with no issues for half the cost of one of the scat, eagle, RPM, molinar, K1, 440 scource ect. cranks because odds are good that my crank came from the same foundry.

Thanks for all of the input. I have been shopping and reading about my crank options for over a year. I know the "Chinese" vs. "US" crank debate. I realize that until you pony up to at least the 1800.00 mark your still buying a overseas foundered crank with a wide margin for hardness. I know...

Apparently I have a RB stroker crank that cant be sold because of the fact it is a Chinese unit finished here in in Texas. I has handled over 650HP with no issue so I am wondering if anyone has cut a 4.15 aftermarket crank down to go in a B block and cut the rods down to BBC. I would get it re...

Double post

All the rods at that level should be fine. Scat k1 copustar molinar ect. It matters most how they are finnished and inspected

The numbers second in from far right is the piston comp height. The far right number is rod ratio. the top left number is the stroke. Numbers taken with 9.980 deck.

I did a spread sheet on all the stroke rod combos for low decks with the piston comp heights. I will list the for you tomorrow to help you get the correct rod for an off the self piston. Then you can call Tom and ask him. the rods you are trying to find will be in the bb chevy section on his site.

I would run the rpm, the new trick flow, ez, or the stealths. if you wanyed sometime to grow into and headers were not a big deal get a set of sr heads with standard port window.

I say buy the biggest heads you can afford. BUT-- I would find somthing in between. What are your hp goals? How big will the cam be?

Pm me I have a used crank and rods for a 440/ 500 stroker. I will make you a hell of a deal.

Bob that sounds cool. I may give that a try. I have a couple pieces of thicker lexan floating around.

They dont look like they have raised intake pots. Are they raised?

Thank you all. I am trying to get my new window opening established so I can cut my flanges and build my pipes over the long weekend. Should I get a gasket that fits the port or is atad bigger. If bigger by how much? Thanks again

Thanks iQ. Still need to get them up to you for a check out, new valves, and any other work needed.

I was only going to open up the last 1/4" to 1/2" up. That opening is 1.810w by 1.246h area of 2.255. My 1.81 valves have an area of 2.572. Was going to take the ramp out of the top and open the sides a tad. Would this be the wrong direction? How I understand your post is that having a smaller...

Talked to an old friend today. He said the port opening area should match the valve area and that you can safely increase the port opening to +15% of the exhaust valve area. does this sound about right?

I have been sick the past couple of days so I have had time to day dream on my build. I have a question: I am going with a 2.375" primary tube on my sc build and was looking at how to fit those pipes. My plan is to not make adapters but to make my own flanges. That being said I have not touched...

note: I don't think you can use a rod with a bigger than .990 pin

I am not a pro builder but I would run the aluminum caps with a girdle. I understand cap walk but if the weakest part is above the crank why put a hard steel cap under the crank. I would think that the added hardness under the crank would only add to the transfer of force to the top of the...

stock block - low deck aftermarket-tall deck

just because it is a 71 casting does not make it the big web block.

from what I have read I would not build that motor for the street. the comp height of the piston with a 6.53 rod will be ok but I would want a longer rod for side loading. I would do the 3.91 crank with a 6.660 rod and run the same piston with a comp height of 1.35

I am either going to clean them up and sell them or use them on my procharger build. Thats why I was curious about fixing that area of the head. Dont want to make the anymore unsellable.

it had copper gaskets--- not sure of the part number but the gaskets had about a 1/8" overhang into the port on the sides. I think I have some huge bugs to work out.

I am not an expert but these dont look ported.