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Talk to Dick at Firm Feel. If he doesn't have one already I'll bet he would make one for you. Explain to him what you have and what you're looking for.

Was not aware of that. Thanks for the correction. Still, the Viper is no "tub" by comparison.

I agree with the lighter t-bars, nicer to drive on the street for a dual-purpose car. Well, if you're going to go through all that work, why not move the UCA mounting points rearward? That way you won't need custom-made longer t-bars, worsen your weight distribution and wheelbase, and need to...

The newer Vettes are impressive and hard to beat, but most of the time it's technology driving the car. I'll never forget a student I had in a black C5 Z06. He would hammer up to a turn, pitch the car in and let the stability control do the rest. I kept asking him to turn off the stability...

Do yourself a big favor and go get some on-track driving instruction. Get some seat time and learn car control. You'll have a blast, and when it comes time to put your car on the track you'll be that much more ready and experienced. It's very addictive; you have been warned! Check into your...

The OP is installing a 5.7L. I thought you had an old school small block.

Regarding the Dana, most serious racers would give their left nut to save 40# of unsprung weight. You're not gonna blow up an 8 3/4 road racing. It also takes more torque to turn a Dana. Not tryin' to argue, just sayin'. The TTI headers fit nice and snug to the bottom of the car with a little...

I am building something very similar to your car. I would recommend ditching the heavy and expensive Dana and go with a 8 3/4. For handling purposes the car has to be as light as possible with an emphasis on unsprung weight. I can't stress this enough! Look at the supension on a newer Vette...

I know it's not a 'cuda but is this what you're looking for?

BK and I were typing at the same time!

Use a quality puller. After you get significant pressure on it, whack the puller bolt hard with a BFH. The impact should jar the arm off the shaft. I would not heat the sector shaft! Even if you're not worried about the metalurgy, you're sure to cook the seals. I assume you want to reuse the box.

I'm just going from memory and not even on my own car. My friend got a similar set up for his Dart. His car sees no street use at all. I personally would not drill out the taper. It's there to make a tight press fit to the steering arm so there is no play in the joint. The stud is in shear so...

The thin nut goes on the top and the thickerer nut goes on the bottom. That'll fix your thread engagement problem. The spacers are there to adjust bump steer IIRC and since this is most likely a drag race only suspension it's designed to be used with skinnies up front.

You just brought a tear to my eye! LOL :cheers: Glad you're happy with it! As John "Hannibal" Smith would say:"I love it when a plan comes together!"

It can be adjusted in the air but it must be measured on the ground at ride height after the suspension has been jounced. This settles the suspension for an accurate reading. The toe changes as the wheels move up & down as well as when changing caster and camber settings. That's why its the last...

What ratio steering box do you have? I believe the available ratios are 24:1 (5.5 turns lock to lock,) 20:1 (4.5 turns) or 16:1(3.5 turns.) That's gonna affect how hard the steering wheel is to turn and how responsive the steering feels. The diameter of the steering wheel should also be...

C-Bodies also came with the large sector box. Not that you see many manual steering C-Bodies.

Hope you got strong arms.

Sooo... how's it coming?

I'm not saying sway bars are bad, just saying that GM used them to cover up deficiencies in their suspension design. I've got a 1 1/4 tubular bar in front and waiting to get the car running and on the road to "dial in" the handling with a rear bar. Still a long ways away though :(.

That's exactly why GM put the fatter sway bars on their cars - to limit supension travel and therfore toe change, bump steer, etc. Couldn't have said it better myself!

Where did you get the P/S pump from? A-body pump pressures are typically set below 1000 psi via a pressure relief valve in the pump. If you got a B or C-Body pump the pressure could be 1300 psi or higher causing an over-assisted feeling. Taking shims out of the pressure relief valve spring will...

That's right, no aftermarket k-frame, no rack & pinion, no multi-link rear suspension, just the best of what Mopar offered. Torsion bars and stagecoach leaf springs gettin' it done! Ever notice that almost all late 60's/up GM's came with decent size sway bars from the factory? I used to be...

Yes but the torsion bar is mounted under the car, contributing to a lower center of gravity as well as reduced unsprung weight. It's a win-win.