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Now I see why the triangle is always pointed up... pointed down just leaves something else to drag and get messed up. I have to look at this since we don't have the best roads in the country and seen so much tore up from them.

Removing the flapper and taking the motor off and installing it to where the flapper/shaft would be on the opposite side of where it is now would be a mirror image of the other side, ie: the rough part of the flapper and the shaft in the correct location.

Break it down in to three parts. Lay it on the table. Turn the flange over (not side to side) and reassemble it. That will flip the flange 180 degrees and when it is bolted back up to your exhaust the motor will be on the left.

That is what I said earlier in the thread but he just isn't following that train of thought.

There is no doubt after seeing Summit's abomination for cut outs that Doug's set up looks a lot better.

Are they supposed to hang way down like that? It looks like it is about 2" lower than the exhaust pipe. If so I wouldn't want to deal with them. All the problems with low hanging headers come to mind. The design sucks and that is why it pays mock up everything before welding.

I think it will really work if he follows what I am saying.... but I have been wrong more than once. If I had one I would give it a try since it is just a few screws to try it.

You are missing what I am saying or I am missing the boat. The issue is the other side of the flapper needs to be rotated 180 degrees, correct? The part the the flapper won't allow that as it is because the shaft is in the wrong place, correct? Flipping the motor 180 degrees would flip the shaft...

Does the motor unbolt from the flange? If so what about removing the baffle and flipping the motor 180 degrees and bolt everything back together again.

Food for thought.... Many members post about having their idler arm going to heck from the heat caused by headers so maybe a good ceramic coated set of headers might eliminate this issue.

Lol, The days of our youth!!

Raw gas down the exhaust. Back when I was 16 I had this old Ford truck with a standard tranny and going down the road I would turn the key off with it still in gear so it would make this nice little pop through the exhaust. Everyone thought it was so cool when it popped. One day it made a huge...

3614396, supercedes to 4006740, left exhaust manifold for 1972 1973 1974 Dodge Dart and Plymouth Valiant with 318 engine. The casting number is # 4006741. Might fit others too.

Install the trunk seal and see what happens. The electric cut outs may be leaking under higher acceleration.

My opinion of Layson's...

Yes. Look at the routing of the front tube between the two.

Lance don't water the rocks.

Xs2.

Do a search and I think you will find the answer is yes. There has been many members install everything on the K frame and then install the assembly.

x2.

When I read where he mentioned Norman, I thought OH **** this guy might be from Oklahoma. Sure enough and I just had to do it. At least his light is off so maybe we won't hear about a Chibby motor for a while.

:wack:OMG.... This guy is from Bixby Oklahoma.....:wack:

Sorry StrokerScamp but I am calling BS on this one. Look at what all this guy has posted. Heck he already has it all.... Just read his posts. small block chevrolet in a 68 barracuda headers Views: 889 Posted By 68cudahemi OK OK GUYS you'll be happy to know I just spoke... OK OK GUYS...

I have a pair of Chevy II Novas I'll trade for the Barracuda. Then you will have a bowtie car to put your bowtie motor in. BTW one of the Nova's still has its factory power guide transmisiion in it.

Wish you were closer... I have a 86 RamCharger that will be going in parts soon.

I can find a manifold number 3830820 listed used form 75 to 78 on 400s and 440s.

I would let it cool down again and recheck everything just to make sure.

Glad to be of help and to hear you accomplished your task. It is amazing what fixing leaks will make happen.

Congratulations! I hear that stainless bolts have issues seizing up but personally can't confirm that. I usually go back with Grade 8 bolts with high temp anti-seize. Once you have repaired everything you shouldn't have to split the two manifolds again, just remove them as an assembly.

Here is one on eBay for $40.00. Make sure it is like yours. By application it does cross if the seller has the correct application. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-PLYMOUTH-225-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/380353363756?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588ed3bf2c