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Do not punch the gas while you're making a 90 degree corner. That will chew up your little side gears in a hurry.

Glad you got that fixed Ken. I was kind of on the fence about poly or that Moog kit, but you just solved that dilema for me. :) Have a great day.

Yup, definitly screw in - not press in.

dodgefreak, to answer your original question. About 21 years ago I had a pair of 66 Valiant springs re-arched and one leaf per side added, at a McCoy truck spring company in Edmonton. I've driven the snot out of that car with a 318 and 360, lots of heavy loads, pulled trailers, etc., and they...

If your old diffy is a 7 1/4", you'll need new 3" U-bolts and also the 3" bottom spring retainers / shoch mounts. 8 3/4" has bigger axle tubes than the 7.25"

NAPA used to carry them - not sure if they still do.

I could be wrong, but I don't think you'll have enough backspacing with a stock rally wheel. You will probably need something with 1.75" to 2" more backspacing. But hey, it never hurts to try it with one tire mounted. If you measure from the face of your brake drum, back to the spring, or the...

As long as you move the spring perches in the required ammount - I believe 43" center to center - you will be good to go. Some people have installed them without moving the perches, but personally I think this puts the springs in an awkward bind. The biggest thing to do after you have it...

Well, it looks like you didn't get much response to your question, so I'll give you a bump back up to the top. :)

It sounds like you need a deeper backspace on your wheels to push them away from the wheelwell lip and in closer to the springs. What make and year car are you working on?

Was the full weight of the car resting on the suspension when you tightened everything up after changing the control arm bushings? If you tightened them while the car was jacked up and the suspension unloaded, that could cause some weird noises. If it's a metalic cracking sound, then it's...

Almost all A bodies have the tires closer to the front of the wheel opening than they are to the rear of the opening. That's why so many people either trim the front of the wheel opening, or move the rearend back an inch or so.

Don't forget to remove the little wire retainer clips from the back torsion bar mount before trying to remove the bars. And make sure ALL the tension is off the torsion bars before attempting to remove them. Good luck.

They are just little round, thin, chromed wire clips with little protrusions on each end so you can compress them enough to remove them from the groves. Sometimes you have to look close to find them. If you try pushing the T-bars out, and they hang, the clips are still there. :)

Instead of trying to remove the torsion bars to get the K-Member out, think about it in reverse. Ie, remove the K-Member and the torsion bars are all ready to slide out. If you're removing the K-Member, it's easy as pie. Back off all tension on the torsion bars via the adjusting bolts. Unbolt...

Could be for a 67 and later A body also I would think Mike.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=14534&highlight=droped+steering+link+in+early+A+body Have a look at page 2 of this thread Mike. I put some photos and measurements in there from my original 66.

Tin, there are a couple of ways to work around what you'd like to do. In order to use an 18x10 wheel, you'll probably need a narrowed rear end, or some very exact measurements and precise offset and backspacing on the wheels. For tire HEIGHT you can either move the diffy back about an inch, or...

Perfect. :)

I believe Dr. Diff has complete 8.75" rear ends for sale.

Joe is runnign RMS suspension front and rear, if I recall correctly. He has a write up on installing both systems either on here or on BBD. Hope this helps.

The only thing that would be lighter would be the torsion bars, and that weight difference would be probably less than a pound. The radiator will be slightly smaller, but, if you put in a healthy big block, you'll probably need to upgrade the torsion bars and rad, so you're right back to the...

Green, hava a look at this thread for a lot of info on your question. The only piece you may have problems with is the idler arm, it may require some minor fabrication. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=34579

Hey scuba. Since your car is a 74 with a 318, I'll assume that you have the big bolt pattern/ disk brake combo up front, and the 8.25" big bolt pattern in the rear. You state that this will be a street car, with maybe the occassional strip run, so, just rebuild the front end to stock...

70dart, when I did mine on the 66, I ran into the same problem, seized solid and couldn't move them. Once I had everything unbolted, I just took a large ball peen hammer and alternately tapped the rear of the K member from one side to the other, and it just slid off the torsion bars. I don't...

I'm glad we got that cleared up, cause I was like 66dartgt and mistakenly thought you meant the K-frame. I have a 65 and a 66 CDN Valiant, and a 67 Dart at home. I'll try and get you some pics and measurements over the weekend. If it pisses rain, all bets are off. :)

What's wrong with your old one?

Nope. The early A's, up to and including 66 are narrower that the 67 and up cars.

There should be no reason not to use the SS springs and the CalTracs together. Check with Calvert, as 73Swinger suggested, and they will give you the straight skinny on the use of their product.

Chris, I'm in the process of replacing a section of frame rail on the left front of my 66. The bottom of the rail and a small portion of each side rail was badly rusted near the bottom. I cut out all the rust, well back into the good metal area, then made up cardboard templates of both sides and...