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It doesn't really matter if they go to the front or the rear as long as you can get a flex hose that will work correctly, and the bleeder valve must be on top. But if you have, or plan on getting a front sway bar, then put your calipers to the rear.

Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak or a bad brake booster? A "mild" cam should not kill that much vacuum. Are you sure your timing and carb are set for maximum tune?

Looking good. Nice job.

If you can find a 73 or newer A Body setup in the JY, that's the way to go. You'll need everything from the Upper Control Arms down. And get the MC and proportioning valve also.

I saw them at the local NAPA store last week. They were on a ' help yourself ' type rotating rack with a whole mess of different types of unusual little things everybody needs but usually can't find. How's that for a description of where to find them? :angry7: :toothy10:

John: Do they spot weld the inside of the screwed in studs so they don't back out? I'm assuming they do....

John, I did the same thing. :)

Even if you drill the extra hole in the 7.25" backing plate, I don't think it will fit properly on the 8.75".

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=16021 Found it. :)

Even if you drill the fifth hole in the 7.25" backing plate, I don't think it will work properly on the 8.75" rear end. There's something about the way it sits on the axle end, and has to do with the way they're shaped compared to the 8.75", that causes a problem. We had a long thread on here a...

John, I really don't have the answer to your question, but it looks like you need a bump to the top so more people can see this. BUMP!!

That looks much better! :)

Yup, pull the rear drums off and have a look. It sounds like a spring or something has come loose inside the drum and is causing the noises. Don't take a chance with your brakes - fix them ASAP!

I would personally keep on the path you're currently following with the used parts. Even if you buy something like the Scarebird front disk kit, you'll still end up with BBP on the front and SBP on the rear. If you use the 76 parts, including the 8.25", then you'll have the 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern...

QUOTE: "I'm going to make sure the car has good brakes before it ever sees the road." That's the really smart thing to do. You should never go faster than you can stop. :)

Glad to hear you're feeling better. :)

Kraby, if you're correct, I just learned something new. :) I always thought you started bleeding at the wheel cylinder farthest from the master, then worked progressively toward the master cylinder.

Excellent info fjr, and thanks for putting all the work in to get it all together in one place. Kudos! :)

Welcome aboard. Keep looking, those control arms are out there. Keep checking the Parts for Sale section because they show up in there quite frequently.

QUOTE "if i sound stupid its probably because im talking." QUOTE Dodgenut64: Good one! :thumblef: That's usually the only time I sound stupid also - when my mouth is open and I'm emmiting sounds. :notworth:

Hadn't seen this article before, but it's a good read. I have a 67 Dart GT that has the old style 4 piston K-H disk setup, and they are hard to find parts for. I'm going to save that article for future reference. :)