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Looks good. You may as well keep going with the paint now. :)

Prowler Orange maybe?

Get all that done before paint grassy - especially the power brake unit. If you have to play around bleeding brakes, there's nothing that will screw up a nice under hood paint job that a good gush of brake fluid.

You're doing some very nice work there. Keep at it, and everything will come together in the end.

Looking good. Now the fun sanding begins.

Great work guys. Lookin' good.

Sweet!

Happy B-Day - and I'm glad reality set in. It looks just right the way it is.

How about something like this? :-D Or, as Leanna suggested, RT Specalties. :cheers:

If you break the corners off the razor blade it helps to keep it from digging in to the paint while you're removing your runs. You'll still need to block sand the hell out of it until all the shiny spots disappear.

Excellent job. I think you just passed the "Novice" stage. :)

Are the torsion rods installed? A photo of your car with the hood open would really help solve the puzzle.

An old hood from most any pickup truck is an excellent patch donor.

Nice work.

I used 14 ga. metal to do mine. Cut out all of the rusty metal first. I made up a cardboard template, transfered that to the metal, then used a metal hole saw type bit on my drill press to get a good fit around the torsion bar holder. You can weld to the crossmember as well as to the torsion...

Nice clean look. I like it.

Congratulations. :) Looks real nice.

I've included an excellent thread by flyboy for you to look at. Go to page 4 of his thread and he'll walk you through the whole door hinge R & R procedure. Good luck, and welcome to FABO. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=15357

No................but I'm waiting for instructions also. :)

Glad you got it done to your satisfaction. In an area where you can use a hammer and dolly, you can stretch the metal back after some welding, but in the place you're working, the metal shrinks with each weld spot and you can't get at it to stretch it back to shape. I've had more than my share...

Andrew, I think you answered your own question when you said "after each small section of welding". On any thin sheetmetal, such as you find on all vehicles, you have to basically stitch weld with the mig, and then jump around from one section of the weld to another section so the heat...

Well, there's my laugh for the morning. :-D Good one.

It looks Blitzy Black. :) Good job.

That thing will make a few people think twice before taking you on at a stop light. :) Excellent job.

As previously stated, gently work the lines as well defined as you can get them with a hammer and dolly. Once you think you're close enough, run a piece of masking tape along the top or bottom of your body line then do you filler on the opposite side of the tape line. So, if you put the tape to...

When adjusting a door that's quite a bit out of alignment, like your's is, I find that if you remove the striker from the door post, it's a lot easier to get the proper alignment. Once the striker is removed, you don't have to worry about it throwing off your adjustments each time you close the...

MIG with gas is the best for welding car type sheetmetal. Best technique is well spaced out spots of weld to keep warpage to a minimum. NEVER run beads with a MIG on sheetmetal. Space each spot a minimum of 1" apart then keep jumping around and spotting in between each weld until the seam weld...

Excellent work. That really spruces the old girl up again.

You've got that lil ol' 170 / just a' smokin there Mike. :)

Just reweld your torsion bar supports back where they belong. :)