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Pretty awesome. Wish we could buy Lifetime warranty on some of the crap they make now a days.

Congratulations on your milestone Dr. Very nice pic of you and the wife.

Listen to Del 67Dart273 He has helped me. Many times these mechanics, so called Resto shops are Full of ****.

I don't think Bill does under dash harness. Does he?

I was thinking a ground or could be your high beam switch.

Yeah could be connection or relay. Loose wire. Get out your test light.

Just missed the set I had for sale.

Yes I used a nut and bolt on my '69 Valiant. Like Del said you should upgrade the wiring through the bulkhead.

pictures

Ok just to let you know what's happening. I made new pos and neg battery cables. It fixed the problem where I know have power. Have head lights, tail lights, etc... Still no crank. So I probed my test light at fusible link and have power. Went and looked around saw broken wire on coil. Ran my...

Thanks Steve. Like you I'm not a big fan of electrical. Good thing we have some good people on the forum to help.

Ok test says bad positive battery cable. Plus when I took it off put back on I had head lights. I'll go get a new one tomorrow and let you know how I made out. Thanks guys.

Thanks, Del I always try to follow your tech threads. Your very helpful. I will give all this a try. Larry

Thanks, George. Yeah they are on tight. But the negative cable has seen better days. And when I take my test light I don't get a signal between positive and relay.

Could use a little advise. I got this '74 Duster from a family member that needed money. Its got slant six electronic ignition. I towed it back to my house. He had put new battery and various other new parts on the car. Anyhow, Battery has a full charge I put my gauge on it. But has no power...

I've used Evan's for all my Engine harnesses. But, he doesn't make the dash (main) Harness.

Yeah, Steve. I have one for a '70 nicely laminated. Can't remember where I got it from. But Classic industries or Year One would probably have them. And they sure are nice. Good luck Buddy.

very good idea.

Dude, your paint is Killer.

Where did you get the battery topper? Please...

Thanks for posting. I will have to do this to my Cuda.

Jeff, do we need to put a little hair on it so you can find the spot. I know bad joke while your frustrated

That's who I was thinking of @KitCarlson. & Del. They know there electrical.

BTW, yes you do have the older style alternator. On my '67 I changed over so I could use the squre back alternator with the newer style VR. Like in the top pic.

Steve, I wish I had answers for you,but I don't. I always follow these electrical threads cuz that's my weakness. Usually Del and a couple other guys on here seem to be pretty knowledgeable on this kind of stuff. Hope you get it figured out....

I think Trailbeast did something like this not so long ago. He's good at that kind of stuff.

Jeff, I think If I was you I would PM Del (67Dart273) he is an electrical guru. He could walk you through how to bench test. I am gonna have to do this to my Barracuda eventually. Larry

ok, I had some time this morning.I fixed my broken wires. When I start her up know the gauge inside the car reads how it should. Initial start up the multi meter reads abouts 13.5 volts. Then as it gets warmer it gets up around 15 to 15.5. I don't know if my gauge is off. It's a cheap HF or if I...

Yes, I had the car in the run position, It does not matter which field the 12V goes to does it? I have already scrapped the inner fender wall to asure a good ground for the VR.

Okay, I did the test and neither one of the wires going into the fields are 12v. See the blue wire that is exposed on the top of the harness. Their is my 12v wire. Do I need to re-wire and have the blue and green wire going to my fields just like my VR?