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Here's a thought, you could always take the shackle apart ago the local hardware store and get a bushing made to the size above. Remember to add the thickness of the washer or support piece it order for the shaft to stick out the side of the frame for you to weld up into place. Besides the...

Here is the kit that I get in order to be welded through the frame, I swore I got it from Mancini Racing but I would call and ask if you can just order the spacer only... But still you are going have to remove the c channel kit before the tube is inserted into frame rail.

This is 100 True...

You may have to remove this frame kit in order to gain access to the hole

There should have been a hole already through the frame. Looks like the one picture you took did have the hole all ready there but someone took a frame welded to the bottom side of the rear frame and it covered up the hole. You may have to removed the boxed in frame kit to get access to the hole...

Mancini Racing Mopar Performance Parts - Yahoo Top Service Award Winner! I thought I just ordered the tube that goes between the rail and then welded the tube through the inside of the rails, not sure if they sell just the tube any more maybe have to get the whole kit...worth a call to find out...

Here is a link to explain how to do the job the correct way... Move Your Springs

Mine was done the same way when I got mine for the past owner the tube was welded to the underside of the frame rail. Removed the tube and inserted it through the frame like it should have been.. The rear shackles are quite a bit easier. Theres an existing hole in the frame, which you need to...

OK So this is what I am going to use... MOOG K7040 And put the washer on the way the diagram say, cup facing out.

I don't think I have the roll pin, so what your saying is if I use the rubber ones from mogg I would put the washer with the cup towards the bushing and use a cotter pin. or use the poly ones with a cotter pin also. Both would use the cup washer towards the bushing.

What is a roll pin I thought mine has a cotter pin...

OK now that we have that figured out what is the correct moog part number for the style I have. Do you use the ones with the brass inset or just the 2 bisket ones...

1972 Plymouth Duster I am ready to order a new set of Strut Rod Bushings, I am not sure what to order, and also why does my spacer look like it is on backwards, after looking at 3 different cars, 1 GtX, 1 Scamp, and 1 Dodge all have washer turned around the other way, plus when looking in the...

OK got the part numbers, thanks guys for all your help

Which one do you use if the Duster has been upgraded to disk brakes from a 73 Duster with disk brakes, I also know it has the larger bolt pattern. You do still use 72 or 73 parts

Thanks for the heads up

I edited the above to reflect I need both upper and lower ones.... Sorry for the misunderstanding.

I did in the First question..... I need upper and lower ball joints part numbers....

OK Now for the lower one.... Moogs book say : L R 73-76A K781 K783 L R 65-72 Disk K7021 K7023 I am leading to believe that it will be the K781 - K783 seeing that the car was switched over to...

OK that one is figured out... I need Moog 772

Thanks

I am need of some new Upper - Lower Ball Joints.... 1972 Plymouth Duster w/ Tubular Upper Control Arms... Disk Brakes Large Bolt Pattern.... I have read the bigblockdart web site but don't what to get the wrongs one's I would like to get it right the first time. I have read that if you have...

I have not changed nothing, except for parts talk about above. I will be bring the car over to a Mopar guy next Wednesday to check all the ball joints and bushing, after and only then will I replace parts, if all parts check out fine I will be bring the car to a different place to have front...

He only put on like 500 miles before he sold it to me, I have had the car 7 years and I think I only drive about 1000 miles per year, I cant see how the ball joint could go bad that quick. Like I've said before, we only replace the center link due to another troubles. The car drove fine before...

I just talked to the guy that I got the car from and he said he just replaced both upper and lower when he switched over to the larger bolt pattern disk brakes, so it should have new ones already. The only thing he is not sure about is the manufacturing company he got the part from, meaning if...

I am going to replace both tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joins. I have Tubular upper control arm bushing that I will replace also. I didn't see in the Moggs book about LCA bushings but will revisit it and order them also. I have had the car for like 7 years now and its about time I go...

I understand, road are kinda crowned here but I am going to replace ball joints and get it done right the first time. Thanks for all your help

I truly understand what you are saying, after talking to another Mopar buddy this morning he, you and I are agreeing that we should replace upper and lower and also bushing in the UCA, its not that much to make sure it will stay going true to the road. Thanks for being so kind and supportive in...

What others parts need to be replace to get it within spec's... Upper - Lower Ball Joints.... Tie rods ends.... I would like to get it rolling right I have tubular upper control arms already. Please let me know

Thanks I will try and call place above and see what time frame I can bring it to them. Thanks for the input