Spring relocation kit installed wrong?

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Another thing to consider is that many front relocation brackets shift the spring back from the stock position. This is done to center up the tire in the wheelwell opening. It's not only for looks, but also for tire clearance.

I have a 71 swinger parts car that has totally unmolested rear suspension. I'll get you the measurements later tonight that you need to figure out what's going on, and how to fix it.
 
Pascamp said:
Another thing to consider is that many front relocation brackets shift the spring back from the stock position. This is done to center up the tire in the wheelwell opening. It's not only for looks, but also for tire clearance.

I have a 71 swinger parts car that has totally unmolested rear suspension. I'll get you the measurements later tonight that you need to figure out what's going on, and how to fix it.
Click to expand...

That would be awesome when you have a chance!
 
Yes shackle goes through the rail. A tube is typically welded in the framerail holes the tube is sized to take the shackle bushings, and the shackle is bolted together around the framerail. Somebody did the hacktastic minitub mod. Front seems ok, but i bet they were going for the gold with a stinkbug stance by welding the shackle tubes to some U channel welded to the frame.

Screenshot_20190326-210309.jpg
 
moparmat2000 said:
Yes shackle goes through the rail. A tube is typically welded in the framerail holes the tube is sized to take the shackle bushings, and the shackle is bolted together around the framerail. Somebody did the hacktastic minitub mod. Front seems ok, but i bet they were going for the gold with a stinkbug stance by welding the shackle tubes to some U channel welded to the frame.

View attachment 1715309735
Click to expand...

Yep I think the rear mount US Cartool kit is going to be on order soon to fix this mess! The front looks done way better than the rear on both sides, almost like they spent all the time up front and rushed the back pretty bad

Would be nice to confirm the front location bolt with a couple measurements to make sure its closer than the rear is!
 
You could always go back to the original configuration. Of course you would need to relocate the axle spring perch or you could go to sliders.
 
Mine was done the same way when I got mine for the past owner the tube was welded to the underside of the frame rail. Removed the tube and inserted it through the frame like it should have been..

The rear shackles are quite a bit easier. Theres an existing hole in the frame, which you need to enlarge to fit the tube. It's not easy , as theres a reinforcing bracket inside the rail that makes grinding difficult. A die grinder is about your only choice. Since theres already a hole there, a hole saw wont work. Rick Kreuziger says he welds a small tab of metal over the hole that has a 1/4" hole in it. This provides a pilot for a holesaw and Rick says this is the fastest method he's found to make a nice hole in this area. Once the hole fits the supplied tubes, slip it in and weld it up. Greg Zeneski chose to add large washers on the outside for additional reinforcement, which isnt a bad idea and also makes for a cleaner job.

upload_2019-3-26_22-41-42.jpg


upload_2019-3-26_22-41-42.jpg


Here is a picture of mine after it was done the correct way...

IMAG1098.jpg


IMAG1099.jpg


IMAG1100.jpg
 
Here's the stock measurements.
From the rear crossmember (the one under the seat) to the middle of the bolt that goes through the front of the spring is 1 7/8".

From the vertical face of the box where the stock bracket mounts to the middle of the fixed shackle bolt is 1 5/8".

The distance from these two points is 54 1/2". So if your front location is set back you can set your rear point back accordingly.

I tried to get the pics to upload, but it says they're too big.
 
There should have been a hole already through the frame. Looks like the one picture you took did have the hole all ready there but someone took a frame welded to the bottom side of the rear frame and it covered up the hole. You may have to removed the boxed in frame kit to get access to the hole now.
Here is the picture I am talking about...
 
The straight line measurement between these two points is 54 1/2".
 
RichardJ916 said:
Mine was done the same way when I got mine for the past owner the tube was welded to the underside of the frame rail. Removed the tube and inserted it through the frame like it should have been..

The rear shackles are quite a bit easier. Theres an existing hole in the frame, which you need to enlarge to fit the tube. It's not easy , as theres a reinforcing bracket inside the rail that makes grinding difficult. A die grinder is about your only choice. Since theres already a hole there, a hole saw wont work. Rick Kreuziger says he welds a small tab of metal over the hole that has a 1/4" hole in it. This provides a pilot for a holesaw and Rick says this is the fastest method he's found to make a nice hole in this area. Once the hole fits the supplied tubes, slip it in and weld it up. Greg Zeneski chose to add large washers on the outside for additional reinforcement, which isnt a bad idea and also makes for a cleaner job.

View attachment 1715309753

View attachment 1715309752

Here is a picture of mine after it was done the correct way...

View attachment 1715309754

View attachment 1715309755

View attachment 1715309756
Click to expand...
A step bit would work well to enlarge the existing hole.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Yes shackle goes through the rail. A tube is typically welded in the framerail holes the tube is sized to take the shackle bushings, and the shackle is bolted together around the framerail. Somebody did the hacktastic minitub mod. Front seems ok, but i bet they were going for the gold with a stinkbug stance by welding the shackle tubes to some U channel welded to the frame.

View attachment 1715309735
Click to expand...
This is 100 True...
 
Here is the kit that I get in order to be welded through the frame, I swore I got it from Mancini Racing but I would call and ask if you can just order the spacer only... But still you are going have to remove the c channel kit before the tube is inserted into frame rail.

IMAG1092.jpg
 
Thanks all for the references, photos and measurements! This is all exactly what I’m after, now just to weigh the pros and cons of what to order to fix this mess, and yea they just welded what appears to be 1 3/4” angle iron onto the rear subframe half covering the locating hole generally used to relocate the springs, shouldn’t be too hard to fix with all the knowledge!
 
Here's a thought, you could always take the shackle apart ago the local hardware store and get a bushing made to the size above. Remember to add the thickness of the washer or support piece it order for the shaft to stick out the side of the frame for you to weld up into place. Besides the washer I also added a piece of diamond plate to add to stiffness of frame.

IMAG1098.jpg
 
Pascamp said:
Here's the stock measurements.
From the rear crossmember (the one under the seat) to the middle of the bolt that goes through the front of the spring is 1 7/8".

From the vertical face of the box where the stock bracket mounts to the middle of the fixed shackle bolt is 1 5/8".

The distance from these two points is 54 1/2". So if your front location is set back you can set your rear point back accordingly.

I tried to get the pics to upload, but it says they're too big.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the measurements! The front spring bolt mount (under the back seat) is 2” to Center off the frame, so that’s pretty darn close to factory! Looks like I just need to clean up the shackle mounts and it’ll be rolling how it should have been in the first place
 
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