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You can put the biggest earth magnet on the side of the pan that you want. Unless you drop the pan later you’ll never know if you have anything stuck to it. Magnetic drain plugs work but not when you introduce a lot of pieces at once.

Ah so you did. Sorry. I like the drain plug magnet better. This way when you drain the oil you will see weather there is more bristles on the engine.

Or magnetic drain plug.

May be condensation.

If that were the case he would see the oil pump drive twisted off or broken and he wouldn't be able to install the priming shaft if a piece were left in the oil pump.

Just a thought, you could loosen the oil pan bolts to allow it to drop down just a little then try and prime the oil system. This might tell you if the pan is against the pickup and sealing it off?

You can remove the relief valve with the pump in the car. But I would remove the pump and place it on the bench so you inspect the relief valve and any foreign material that might be causing it to stick.

I’m going to say one of two things. 1- you broke pickup and it is sucking air 2- pressure relief valve in pump is sticking.

Maybe if the rubber between the inner and outer ring were failing. But that would be a hell of a wobble.

The lip always faces the oil. This is true with any seal. Like Mentioned above, The lower pulley bolts were probably to long. Many years ago around 1980 I had a guy that had bought a Dukes of Hazard look alike that had a rebuilt 383 in it with zero miles. Guy told me it was locked up. Sold it to...

64 was last year I believe.

Not me. In 1980 I owned a auto parts store in Tampa Fl. I had a kid come by selling a 70 383 4 speed B-5 blue white interior. I really wanted that car. But he want $1200.00 for it. I said man there is no way I’m spending that much. Yeah I regret that decision.

70 Coronet or Superbee is my favorite B body. I’ve wanted one forever. But it may not happen.

Family? That is tough to deal with. I would let them put a price on it. See if it’s something you can live with.

Depends on your end goal. But I would still secure the the 440/727.

Agree. That first gen 392 has some value to the right person. Then install a 3rd gen Hemi in your Duster. My 2 cents.

When i order anywhere, I’ll always check availability and estimated ship times. I never let them hold back ordered items.

Where did order parts from? I have not experienced much if any delays since the start of this corona ****.

@#67barracudabob Look at you , digging up a almost 4 year old thread just to exercise your right to push that disagree button. That’s so cute.

More than likely you have a SB water pump pulley. And your 4 groove lower pulley is one for AC ,PS. See if the WP pilley has a part number on it.

Same here. I’ve placed them ridge up or down. Has worked for me either way. Most of the time the dowel pins will dictate how they go.

Very common occurrence. I have some good ones if you need one.

Here is a good display about the different gas caps. Dodge Dart gas cap.

May be the wrong cap?

Well the caps are cheap to replace. But you can use a inner tube and cut one out.

3 is the year D is engine plant last 6 matches last 6 of the VIN

RB intakes for the most part don't have a valley plate. Why would you need to cut the china wall? Even if they do have a valley plate, that is part of cutting the intake.

Yup there is not a reason to cut there.

No, why would they need to cut there. When they deck the block it is the head surface of the block.

Decking wouldn't effect where a RB is marked. It's on a pad at the front of the block. My Guess is a warranty block.