oil pressure disappeared.

-
SGBARRACUDA said:
I’m going to say one of two things.
1- you broke pickup and it is sucking air
2- pressure relief valve in pump is sticking.
Click to expand...
I'd like to add a couple more possibilities. I've seen the hex-socket of the drive in the pump crack. I've also seen the intermediate oil pump drive shaft strip, or twist the hex right off.
 
rustycowll69 said:
I'd like to add a couple more possibilities. I've seen the hex-socket of the drive in the pump crack. I've also seen the intermediate oil pump drive shaft strip, or twist the hex right off.
Click to expand...
If that were the case he would see the oil pump drive twisted off or broken and he wouldn't be able to install the priming shaft if a piece were left in the oil pump.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
If that were the case he would see the oil pump drive twisted off or broken and he wouldn't be able to install the priming shaft if a piece were left in the oil pump.
Click to expand...
Yeah, he's turnin the pump, it's just not picking up, I believe.
 
I am going with the p/up against the bottom of the pan. Don't see how the p/up could crack, it is a looooong piece of tube that can absorb quite a bit of bending before it would actually crack.
My guess is the p/up was very close to touching the pan bottom before the gasket was removed & now it is touching. That design of p/up can cause this, one of the reasons I NEVER use them.
 
Kent mosby said:
I previously had 2 cork gaskets and a metal windage tray. Now I have a windage tray rubber gasket combo. Probably a 1/8-3/16" shorter. Since I use studs and the gasket is rubber and no RTV is used, I am tightening the pan up and it could press up against the pickup and either plug it or crack it. No way to feel that happening. I should have remeasured the drop of the pickup but I did not. The pan and pickup were used for many miles. The pickup is a 440 source pickup designed for stroker motors. It is narrow at the threaded end so that is does not hit the crank..
View attachment 1715813509
Many pickups are welded by the threads and the flange hits the crank. I cannot see the bottom end of this pickup to see if there are stops, say 1/16-1/8 inch to prevent it from sealing against the bottom of the pan. If I measured before to get it close, I could have had it 1/16" away.
Click to expand...

I have run a 8q Moroso pan and pickup similar to your pickup for over 35 years. I have always used the 2 cork and stock windage tray setup though and have never run into this issue.
 
1969383S said:
I have run a 8q Moroso pan and pickup similar to your pickup for over 35 years. I have always used the 2 cork and stock windage tray setup though and have never run into this issue.
Click to expand...

I too ran it like that and then I changed to a single gasket but I did not adjust the pickup depth. That is when I began to have issues. I will pull it apart in a few hours after work.
 
Anyway the pick up is not facing down ?
Dumb question but just checking
 
Kent mosby said:
I too ran it like that and then I changed to a single gasket but I did not adjust the pickup depth. That is when I began to have issues. I will pull it apart in a few hours after work.
Click to expand...

Good Luck!

Seems you are on the correct path! "What did I change and how did it effect it"!
 
Kent mosby said:
I too ran it like that and then I changed to a single gasket but I did not adjust the pickup depth. That is when I began to have issues. I will pull it apart in a few hours after work.
Click to expand...

So what prompted you to make that change? Are you pulling the pan frequently?
 
Well, We learn from our experiences. When I had to remove the 2 gaskets and windage tray that I "glued" on with rtv, I found that a wire wheel connected to a dewalt drill did a great job at removing the remaining rtv, both on the pan and on the block. Little did I know that the wire wheel was shedding crap into places I did not want it to.

I tried to just drop the pan a bit and see if cranking it over gave me any pressure, nope. Then I dropped the pan and found 3 wires from the wire wheel in the pan. Big uh oh.

After measuring the drop of the pickup, I was 1/16 inch or so off the floor of the pan. Probably not flush preventing flow. One possibility down.

Time to pull the oil pump. When I did I tried to remove it completely intact. Nope, When I removed the cover the outer ring fell to the floor so I could not inspect it carefully. However, after pulling the insides of the pump, I found indentations of the wires being pulled into the pump and being embedded into the rotating elements,(Don't know names of them). My assessment is that the wires were pulled into the pump and got embedded causing the outer ring to spin and the rotor was not pumping. If you look at the pictures, you will see the indentations of the wires in both the rotor and the outer ring. You will also see the scrapes on the surface that abuts the cover. The relief valve showed no signs of damage. Finally, What is the white stuff in my oil???
.
IMG_2143.JPG
IMG_2144.JPG
IMG_2145.JPG
IMG_2146.JPG
 
Kent mosby said:
Well, We learn from our experiences. When I had to remove the 2 gaskets and windage tray that I "glued" on with rtv, I found that a wire wheel connected to a dewalt drill did a great job at removing the remaining rtv, both on the pan and on the block. Little did I know that the wire wheel was shedding crap into places I did not want it to.

I tried to just drop the pan a bit and see if cranking it over gave me any pressure, nope. Then I dropped the pan and found 3 wires from the wire wheel in the pan. Big uh oh.

After measuring the drop of the pickup, I was 1/16 inch or so off the floor of the pan. Probably not flush preventing flow. One possibility down.

Time to pull the oil pump. When I did I tried to remove it completely intact. Nope, When I removed the cover the outer ring fell to the floor so I could not inspect it carefully. However, after pulling the insides of the pump, I found indentations of the wires being pulled into the pump and being embedded into the rotating elements,(Don't know names of them). My assessment is that the wires were pulled into the pump and got embedded causing the outer ring to spin and the rotor was not pumping. If you look at the pictures, you will see the indentations of the wires in both the rotor and the outer ring. You will also see the scrapes on the surface that abuts the cover. The relief valve showed no signs of damage. Finally, What is the white stuff in my oil???
.View attachment 1715814098 View attachment 1715814099 View attachment 1715814100 View attachment 1715814101
Click to expand...


Ouch!!!! Most sorry for your Pain!
 
Last edited:
Kent mosby said:
Oil leak
Click to expand...

And the Cost?

I do not like those newer type composite gaskets? Call me old school!

You certainly learned the bad side of using these cheap "likely Chinese" wire wheels! Enough said!

Gotta wonder why you had a leak with the good old 2 cork sandwich? This is always the one area of my motor that never has an issue!
 
If what you are showing is the problem, you had better inspect "the heck" out of the intermediate shaft, and BOTH distributor gears, AKA the cam
 
1969383S said:
And the Cost?

I do not like those newer type composite gaskets? Call me old school!

You certainly learned the bad side of using these cheap wire wheels! Enough said!

Gotta wonder why you had a leak with the good old 2 cork sandwich? This is always the one area of my motor that never has an issue!
Click to expand...

The leak was from the timing chain cover. I had to re-degree the camshaft which meant pulling the timing chain cover. I tried to just replace the cover without replacing the oil pan gaskets. Bad Idea. After replacing the gaskets with the windage/gasket combo I did not have any leak for a week. Then I waited a week to use it and then the pressure was gone.
 
67Dart273 said:
If what you are showing is the problem, you had better inspect "the heck" out of the intermediate shaft, and BOTH distributor gears, AKA the cam
Click to expand...
I would hope that the oil filter would catch any other wires that were picked up. If they are in the motor, I am screwed. I have not cut open the filter yet. I may do that later this week. When visually inspecting the cylinder bores from below all looks good.
 
Kent mosby said:
The leak was from the timing chain cover. I had to re-degree the camshaft which meant pulling the timing chain cover. I tried to just replace the cover without replacing the oil pan gaskets. Bad Idea. After replacing the gaskets with the windage/gasket combo I did not have any leak for a week. Then I waited a week to use it and then the pressure was gone.
Click to expand...


That is exactly what I was thinking in the back of mind!

It was the only time I ever had an issue when swapping from the 284/484 to 292/509 cam in the parking lot of my apartment complex.

That is a messy job to try without totally raising / removing .....and doing it right!
 
What is the white stuff in my oil pan??? It has the consistency of motor oil. I am using a purple oil BTW. I cleaned the oil pan with degreaser and washed with water and then dried it.
IMG_2141.JPG
IMG_2143.JPG
 
It does not seem to be in the sump though!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top