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I get upset when I see Mighty Car Mods online youtube show and they go to a store like Autozone, and there is bench there with a machine, and you put in a paint chip, or give a paint code, select how faded you believe it to be... etc... then it mixes it and puts it in a spray can with a little...

I figured this would be a good spot for it - but I have the A body adapter to use the flip top gas cap on my dart, and was wondering if anyone's "dented" the body to recess the cap kind of like how it's supposed to be? or welded in the part from the donor car and shortened the filler neck to...

Is this true for 1974 darts as well dan? If so I wonder if I can swap a full set onto my 68. I like safe stuff.

Yeah I'd rather get the jambs in the same shot. Either way I'll have to mask off the interior. I don't plan on removing much besides the Door panels, door sill covers, and kick panels, and then taping everything else. I may need to get another quart regardless because I'd like to shoot the...

so if I just barely hit the roof part with purple, like a little splotch over the line i want to make, and not spray the whole roof purple, I should be ok with a gallon? I was hoping to do the door jams yes, but not the upper door trim on the interior. That's already done, painted black...

So you've used that particular paint, just a different color, and it was good? I'm all for it then. Also adifferentcity, that confirms the stuff I was looking at is the correct stuff. Well awesome. Do you guys think a gallon is enough? Last car I painted was a tiny porsche and I think it only...

Yes that's the one I saw. I;d like something that last a little longer than 5 years. Unfortunately the car lives outside. I don't have a garage. The old owner had it painted by in his words "guy turned out to be a drunk and took 6 months to paint it, finally I gave him $500 to do what he could...

So you'd recommend more welding a plate to the back of each hole and then filling it? Or welding a big gob on there and grinding it off or something? I have a lot of tape at my disposal, and have some of the blue fine line and the green thin tape that's not quite as malleable. It also isn't...

Well, the clear coat has started peeling in a lot of places on the 5 year old $500 paint job on my '68 4 door. The roof is white, and the clear has faded on it and peeled. All of this happened in a very short amount of time - about 2 months. First noticed the first peel, then every wash gets...

I did my fiancee's dart with a roller, and a gallon of a Rustoleum color i mixed. The amount of time wet sanding it and buffing it outweighed the time it would have taken to build a spray booth somewhere and shoot it, but now I can say I've done it. It's out of my system. It also took 4 coats...

I didn't want to take the engine out either and my engine bay was pretty trashy, so I mixed various oil based colors till I came up with something close to the exterior, used some brushing thinner, and brushed the engine bay with a nice 2" purdy brush. The black paint that was on there just made...

Well, it took about 2 hours on the buffer just for that little bit of surface area - the window to trunk basically. I feel like if i knock it down again and add more clear this would look perfect, but Mopar Ralley is tomorrow morning so I don't have time. I knocked everything down with super...

I was pretty upset when I saw it. I had just taken it to the car wash and saw a bubble of water so I poked it thinking it was some junk sitting on the car, then sure enough it peeled off... This paint job is 4 years old, and it was done before I got it. It has it's share of runs and low...

I don't know how many remember this particular problem, but there is new development. I washed the car the other day and it bubbled... yeah. And then flaked off. Yeah... So that confirmed my assumption that it was a 2 stage paint, with a clear. I sanded the flakes off around it because I...

Don't even have to do vinyl. How's this? Personally the black or silver I think look good. White - seems out of place to me. This is a quick photo edit. May not be the stripe you mean, but it should give you an idea.

I'd screw them down so when they innevitably get all messed up, you can replace them easily. I replaced my set after a year with a bigger set. Just unscrewed and put the new pates on.

Well, the thing that got me the closest to having it sit all the way down was to adjust the latch behind the grill down, and move the hood stops up a little tiny bit, so it was basically lower in the center and higher on the sides, but eventually the hood latch just moved up again and it was...

I had the exact same issue, and the wind would pick the hood up there in the exact same spot and flex it while I was driving. No amount of adjusting the latch, hood stops, or the rear hinges helped push it down. I eventually got rid of the spring and latch and hood pinned it down, that was the...

I feel like it should be black with the black roof. I have a white stripe, but I also have white roof and white interior so it works.

That's what my door did right before the hinge blew into the door. Turned out the little cam gear was getting all jammed up on the lower hinge and was putting so much pressure on the door it eventually blew right into it and punched a hole out. You had to lift up on the door to open it, and also...

That is a massively heavy duty bracket. Also I think a trunk popper is in order on my setup too. I should do that, and then wire it to my keyless entry system.

The ones I found up top are for a Buick Regal, and they are rated at 90lbs. They're a bit strong for the application, but work.

I'm getting there, and I think these struts will work just right. I'm trying to see if I can get a little more height in the lift, but it seems like this is about it. You lose about 4" of height. The torsion rods opened it all the way up till the hinges stopped, wheras my system you lose about...

I am still looking for a stud that will fit. Right now i have holes drilled straight through the hinge, and a 5/16" bolt, then I threaded the end of the strut onto it for now. I wanted something simple I could move around till I found a spot that worked. I put a bolt through the hinge, put a nut...

I've been looking to do this for a while. The spot where my torsion rods go in the trunk on one side - the metal ripped through, and I wasn't looking to break it again. I found a $36.00 option this way, minus the hardware. I've seen a lot of people asking for how to do it all around, and I...

Yeah I think you guys are right. There's probably not something i want to deal with underneath it...

I agree that it still looks good. I've been driving it every day, for the last two years. It's my one and only car. The '74 Dart is my Fiancee's and that's her one and only car. There's no such thing as taking a Dart off the road for a while here. If I did any kind of painting it'd be a...

This is what I'm thinking of doing. If I were to prep it and sand off the old paint down to the primer would this happen again over time?

That particular spot in the corner where the roof meets the quarter has been there since I bought it, along with another spot near the driver's window. They don't change. The paint feels all like one surface there. It looks almost like they missed with the gun somehow. I can't really explain it...

Maybe, but the car lives outside and gets driven every day. It also gets parked in the dirt and gravel at work, people drive by and kick up rocks and junk. I just like to try and keep it nice. I had no idea primer could shrink like that, but it does make sense to me. They were filling in some...