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Yukon gears...from Randys...all good

Do you have the special tool for adjusting the side bearings?

you need a sure grip with that ratio? OK..make sure you take a backlash measurement BEFORE you take it apart...and use some gear marking compound to put it back exactly where it was..or you will have noisy gears! Very important with used ones... Get a service manual if you dont already have one...

Hi. Anyone tell me the book time to overhaul a 73-up 8 1/4" rear diff with all new bearings/seals/and suregrip unit..... How many hours??? Thx

Yeah...accumulator spring is the big one....

From what I rememeber of my TF2 kit I had several springs left over. Some are for different applications/years. The plate and drill bits are used once. Leaving the accumulator spring out can help with a firmer shift...as well as using Type F fluid.

I've used the Trans Go kits in the past...."in the past"...didn't like them so I try NOT to use those. I like the Mopar Performance/B&M transfer plate shift kits - no drilling or modifications to the valve body. Bolts in..and has two levels of firmness....my old 91 Dakota Sport 4WD 318 bone...

Any Dana 60 should fit....they are 9 3/4" All Dana's came with large U joint yokes....most A bodies came with small U joint driveshafts...you may need a special U joint. (or change driveshaft) I believe most Dana's used fine spline yokes/pinions. Randy's Ring and Pinion-

All good advice guys....that seal sure is a pain to replace with the trans in the car....another thing that hasn't been mentioned is to check your valve body stub for excessive wear (flops around) or the seal surface being grooved. Clean it up with some fine sandpaper. Good Luck

Probably came loose because of the crush sleeve.... Ring gear is date coded...Sure grip is 69 and newer 'cone' style...BTW

Geez....go to a transmission shop or Chrysler dealer and get the Right one! (O ring) Mopar performance sells a deep pan kit too. Cha Ching!