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Bump...... Any progress on this car? Considering the Paxton for the top of my stroker 426. Curious how well the EFI handled the boost.

Following this build now. Your car is what I intended my Barracuda build to be...............on steroids! Gorgeous over-the-top work!! :burnout:

Just completed the minitubs and 8-point roll cage. Still need to finish the interior!

They're not some people's cup of tea, but if 17's are an option for you, here are some pics. This combo allowed me to run 245's up front (room for 255's) and 255's out back (room for 275's) without any fender modifications. Granted I am running the Mopar .875" spring relocation kit in the rear...

Try this instead.............did this before I converted to AlterKtion (so I no longer need the extra K-member clearance).

The Tremec 5-speed install isn't that difficult, but it's more involved than simply cutting a hole in the tunnel and making a new hump. You'll need to completely remove the center of the tunnel and construct a new hoop over the torsion bar crossmember. I took a hybrid approach of severely...

I converted to solid mounts on my 65 (modified a set of the 67-72 style solid biscuits to work with my 65 brackets) a while back, but I still have the Schumacher torque strap if you are interested. It worked pretty well, but I wanted to stop movement altogether since I have a set of .990 torsion...

To drop in a V-8 you will not need a different K-member >> they are the same from 63-66. You will need a V-8 centerlink and motor mount brackets (mounts are available through Schumacher). The most difficult part of your swap will be the firewall modification required for distributor...

The 67+ A-bodies are "cavernous" in comparison to the 63-66 variety A-bodies, so yes, much more crossmember/hoop would need to be sacrificed. That said, since you're in there cutting and fabricating to install a TKO500/TKO600, why not go for the T56? Not really that much more work. "Add a...

Its sporting a late model a/c compressor, but wow! What a time machine!

If you never plan on pulling them (the headers or steering column) again, welding these connections will save you from having to occasionally remove the slip-fits and applying high temp silicone to eliminate ppfft, pppffffffft pffffffft problems (voice of experience speaking here). However...

Mcleod's hydraulic throwout kit works well in this application. I am running an LA series 360 in my 65 Barracuda with a Tremec and Lakewood bellhousing in conjunction with my Doug's headers with no other issues than clearance for my .990 torsion bars:rolleyes: See the Tremec installation in...

OK, Sorry for the delay, but here it is. I have to preface the attached list by saying that Fred Sanderson at Dark Horse can probably get you the assembled parts listed at a much better price than can be achieved separately, and he was extremely helpful in working through the details when...

sorry, itchy trigger finger

I have attched a pic of the only sheetmetal work that might eliminate the Wilwood as an option for you. I cut an opening just above the factory speedo cable hole and relocated the speedo to a plug opening below. This was necessary to obtain the optimum amount of travel keeping the master's...

I am running the Doug's headers myself, and a Lakewood bell (makes it even worse than a factory unit because it changes the clocking on the starter) but I digress. Mcleod makes a hydraulic throwout that fits inside the bellhousing, eliminating the interference of the clutch fork (because...

I just noticed that the shifter handle in the image I posted was the stubby I used when I first got the car back on the road. I will have to actually take a new photo of the handle I spoke of! I posted an earlier shot of the handle in the car, but the "custom-ness" is covered by the boot. I...

I used the rear shifter mounting location, but I removed the front half of the shifter plate and corresponding section of the tailshaft case to create clearance for the hoop. The shifter is actually a 67-70 A-body shifter that I cut at the base, removed about 6 inches from the lever, and welded...

I will try and collect receipts and put the part numbers in a table this weekend. Regarding the hoop: yes it had to be severely hacked, and welded into a "box" to reinforce it, however I wasn't as worried since I tied the frames together. I will attach some photos in a subsequent post.

Indeed they are LBP (4.5" bolt circle) American Racing Torque Thrust II's, and 17 x 8's at all four corners, and I need to correct my comment from earlier in this thread, the backspacing is 5.5" not 5.25". I am running 245/45's up front and 255's out back. When the rears are ready to go I will...

And you don't have to make the crossmember from scratch, you just need to butcher a factory unit and reinforce it. Here is the cobbed unit I built. remove the interior detail, remove the majority of the face for clearance for the bottom of the tailshaft, and fabricate a plate that somewhat...

There are a couple places selling the modified cases (I've seen an ad for someone other than Keisler) but you may find it easier just to just cut out the tunnel and build from scratch than to cut the case and then follow Keislers instructions (which still requires some minor structural cutting...

Here's a few pics of my 65

I am running a 255/45R on 17x8's on my 65 with a 5.5" offset and 3/4" Mopar spring perch relocation setup. I have room to probably get away with 275's, but it may rub when the rear articulates turning into driveways. ](*,)I just realized that if you're running the drum brakes, this offset will...

Nope, I left the over-center spring in place, and it is probably the reason that my clutch effort is as light as the one on my SRT-4 (my friend with the 63 Valiant describes it as "cream puff" effort).:roll:

FstFish66, I have the invoice for my setup that I can dig up, I can check on part numbers for the Mcleod bolt-on hydraulic throwout (mounts in place of the input bearing support of the Tremec). That's of course assuming that it is still available............that said I can help Dodgenut64 with a...

I'm so sorry to hear that. I will keep an eye out for Red's future venture. I have attached a few images also of my clutch pedal to hydraulic master cylinder pics. I fabricated a standoff that slid over the factory pivot and welded it to the clutch lever. The standoff has a threaded ID that I...

Milodon pan in Early A K-member>>>>>>>>>>here was my solution.

Fred Sanderson at Dark Horse is a good man. He's actually who I purchased my "kit" from and he was very helpful in assembling the raw pieces for the kit. A good number of pieces need to be fabricated as his kits are universal (though he sets you up with the appropriate case for the application...