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The one piece oil pan gasket.

I use Autolite 3924 on my heads, What are the heads you are using?

I am curious was what did you use as a gasket? What part number? I would like to do some more research on this, thanks

wow a one piece oil pan gasket, modified some. would have never thought about that, thanks. I have put studs in the oil pan rail to help hold the gaskets in place. My only leak is the rear seal. drips a little.

Watch what you do. a cheap head gasket may blow and it will cost you more to repair than buying a good gasket to start, especially on a high performance engine. I use Felpro or Cometic

that is what I thought. thanks

The shims went on a motor that was ran for several years, had about 800 miles on it, then replaced the shims. I am running BAM solid lifters on a Lunati cam.

The studs were torqued to 25 pound feet. The shims are offset and equal size. They are ARP bolts. I figure the stud gave way then flexed the shaft enough to break it. It happen at a stop light, has been running with the shims a year now.

I broke a TFS stud and the shaft. So I have been working on replacing the shaft and stud, broke it at the end of the hex. I also add B3 rocker alignment shims. When I started it today there was a ticking noise, which gave me the dented cover. I used the two gaskets the first time because the...

That looks like an option, will have to look at what I need tomorrow, most likely the 3/8" I have to take off the valve cover again to look, but the circled is a dent that just started.

I have 2 gaskets now, So I am looking at least 3 1/2" with the two gaskets. I have dented the baffles but it seems like there are some interference yet.

After looking at the spec, the Moroso are 3.25" tall Need more height

Right now I have the tall chrome Moroso valve covers. I changed to the Trick Flow heads with Harland Sharp rockers. I am now having some interference problems. I have bent the baffles and the rocker studs still touch. My question is what is everyone using for tall valve covers? There seems to be...

A PVC valve in one valve cover with a hose to the carb or intake manifold. The other valve cover will have a good breather. make sure that both are sealed good with grommets.

I wonder what the K&N HP2004 fitter compares to the Wix? The larger the micro the more it will flow, it lets larger partials thru.

I used a after market cable mount that was higher than the stock one to line the cable and linkage up. I think that I got it from Mancinni

I use Valvoline ZR 1 10w-30, it has the zinc content we are looking for.

After some break in oil. Valvoline High zine 10w-30

I quest my question is then do you need to adjust the valve lash ever so offend? I like doing it, but just curious

No valve lash on hydraulic cams. Rotate push rod, that is on base circle, until it has tension. then I think it is turn a half, then lock. Someone will confirm the procedure.

take Number 1 plug out, hold finger on hole, crank, when pressure blows out you are on compression stroke, rotate crank over, if you can by hand, to TDC.

Just came to mind, after finding TDC, does the marks line up on the balancer to chain cover mark?

First make sure that the engine is on TDC, I use 15 degrees before TDC. then check rotor is pointing to number one spark plug terminal. If this is correct, is the carb pumping gas? should be able to see it when you pump the linkage, the accelerator pump should squirt Put a phillips screw...

Internal balanced the crank will have holes drilled into the counter weight or have some metal added to the holes for balance.

I used the poly interlocked mounts, so far no issues with them, 408 560hp.

A roller cam. steel, can use the steel gear. Crane has one, and I think others may.

you can use the plug port, under the carb, for the PVC or the brake booster.

I used the Scat rotating assembly to make the 408 Good luck Richie

I am using a Lunati cam #60432 in my 408. It is a street driven car

I would be interested too, ramblefish your inbox is full, contact me please.