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Bunch of "jerk offs"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:steering::rofl::rofl::rofl::poke:

It's your thread, that makes you "The King". If it was someone else's thread then it would be different.:poke::thumbsup:

"I have shifted (yes, intended) the original topic of the thread." That was pretty smart of you to use the word "shift" to keep your comments relative to the subject line!!:rofl::thumbsup:

The technical term is "drill bit index": I have my share of drill bits that I've bought at garage sales for pennies on the dollar:

Wait a minute....did you say that you need to drill out the shifter?? I thought it was the shifter handle. The shifter shouldn't hard coated but it might be hardened. More pics of the shifter are that needs drilling, both sides.

Sure, "My darl'n Clementine"!! The new handle looks like it's chrome plated, as such the shifter has a hard coating. Use a hand grinder or dremel to remove the chrome in the area that you will drill out......on both sides if possible. I would use a transfer punch to locate the second hole so...

If you do decide to drill out the new shifter handle I have some good advice for you???

I thought that once u got it in the exact right spot u would drill two or three 1/8" or 1/4" alignment holes to b able to reposition it during final assembly. You install it then stick a 1/8" or 1/4" rod through the holes and go to town. That way u know you'll have it as close as possible to...

.004 (parallel) is really good on the back face of the bell!! If you got it within .005 on the concentricity you're probably as close as your gonna get. Did you have to remove the alignment pins??

I would install it without dowels and only 3 bolts just to see if you can tap it around until it centers up???

Good luck, we have seen FABO members who have found that the back of their block is not perpendicular to the crank bore, hope yours is not that way???

That will work. If the hole is "dead" round then you need to make sure that the back surface of the bell is parallel to the back of the block. If the back surface of the bell is not parallel to the block then the bell might have been machined improperly which will make the hole in the bell...

First I would use an ID mike to check the roundness of the hole that the indicator is sweeping. If the hole is "dead" round then on to step 2. Is the magnetic base mounted on the back of the crankshaft??

You should check the rear face of the block to eliminate that as part of the problem while you have the bell off>

That could be it????

You simply attach the magnetic base to the back of the crank and set the indicator tip on the rear mounting surface of the block then rotate the crank. This will tell you how far off the rear face of the block is "out of square" to the crank. All of your .010" might be there and not in the...

Did you check the back face of the engine block for squareness to the crank first??

I would think that the alignment is much more critical when your clutch is depressed!! That's when all the load is on the linkage. Have someone depress the clutch and take another pic ....make sure you're at the same level (vertically) as the linkage when you take the pic, if you take the pic...

That may be true but my goal was to break the clips free and lube good so that the thinner feeler gage can more easily go into both sides at once. Small steps!! Then BIG steps. treblig

How about getting a hack saw blade, grind the teeth smooth and try it in place of a feeler gage. A hack saw blade is sturdy enough to tap on with a small hammer. I would do one side at a time so there's plenty of room for the blade then once you've broken through then lube good and try the...

NEVER GIVE UP, NEVER SURRENDER!!! Treblig

""Adjusted clutch to 60 thousands release. When warm same issue."" When warm same issue!! Does that mean when it's cold there's NO issue?? If so you're close to knowing what is causing the problem. Heat causes expansion, expansion takes up clearances!! If you adjusted the clutch when cold...

I know that you're looking for a quick fix (for now), sometimes you just have to make things work temporary. If this is a pic of your actual clutch push rod then I was wondering if it's actually aligned properly?? It looks like the clutch arm pivot point is further out than the other end (Z...

I wonder if you could make the hole larger on something like this then put a grade 8 threaded rod in it with lock nut to lock the rod in place (or weld it): Universal 2 1/2" Long Pedal Rod Extension clevis rod 3/8- 24 x 2 1/2" new | eBay Or what I would prefer is to make it more heavy duty...

Pics would help a lot...there's almost nothing that can't be fixed!! treblig

I don't know the answer to your clutch rod/Z bar question but I do know that it's pretty easy to drive a car without having to use the clutch pedal, especially if the engine is already warmed up (even on a hill). You simply put the car in first gear and start the engine. It car will jump a...

If you turn it 180 degrees and the holes line up I would guess that it's backwards because it doesn't look like it's level (parallel to the trans mount surface) anyway. treblig

I agree again!! If he can buy everything at the prices you quote it would be great but he'll be limited on gearing for his highway cruising. I get great gas mileage in town as well but "svevobandini" will surely make a decision that best suites his needs. treblig

I would much rather install a 2004R!! I'm running 4:56 gears and my car cruises at 2500 going 65/70 MPH (29" tires)....I love it. When I had 3:90 gears I could cruise at 70MPH doing 2100RPM with a top speed of 180!!!! Why spend money on switching gears when you can keep the gears and increase...

WHAT!!!!! No pics?????????????? Treblig