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Just use eddy rpm heads with a 75cc chamber. Unless you have the + .020 above deck magnum Pistons you will need the smallest chamber heads to get any reasonable compression. I've also used .020 steel shim gaskets with some copper coat and never had a leak. If you have the clearance.

Howards 260 264 @.050 .616 .620 lift on a 108 lsa. The extra lift won't hurt a thing. The aggressive lobes will help. My old build was very close to yours and this is the cam they advised for me.

I don't like it, but it's a fact. Some of them imports are no joke.

With that mild of build don't be surprised if the ricers spank your ***. That's a 375 hp build. Lots off ricers run high 12s with mods.

Depends on their condition. Check for straight, performance valve job, guides, machine for duel springs at the least. Gasket match and bowl port if you want.

This cam would be much better and still run good. Comp 23 232 4 I'd be very tempted to get some E street heads for what it cost to rebuild a stock set.

If using comp cams I'd go with this one 21-227-4 Extreme high lift

Looks like a typical holley thats been on an engine for a while. I'd definitely keep that as a spare. You'd pay 200 to 300 for that carb used. I bet with a rebuild it works just as good as a new one with no leaks. The 850 will be nice also.

Street car or street strip or drag. Any thing above street I'd go 850

High float level or bad bowl gaskets. Could be either.

Is the carb trashed or just ugly. It could be cleaned up good and a kit installed and be just fine. Much cheaper than a new carb. Go back with stock jets and go from there.

Those are the plugs I ran in my nitrous motor. My car runs better n/a on a 5 or 6 extended plug. Also running that rich will trash rings. Ask me how I know.

Yes. I've had to jet up carbs going from big block to small block.

Wow. That's horribly rich. That engine should be easy to tune. High vacuum and stock type idle. Look at carb and initial and total timing.

I do agree. The numbers aren’t bad. And a cam change itself isn’t going to get u to 400 at the wheels. Could get u closer though. I thought cam was hydraulic rpm. Guess I read wrong.

Get rid of that turd of a cam and go solid.

You guys are way to smart for me.

Why not eddy E-streets with a 75cc chamber.

Just build a stock stroke 440 and stomp his ***.

I used summit 2.5 exhaust on my 68 dart. Clamped it together then welded all joints except for mufflers then pulled clamps. Been good for 10 yrs.

I like the howards with the bigger split for stock manifolds. With 93.5 octane I'd run as much compression as I could get by with. Let the numbers guru's on here figure that for you. Comp cams 911 springs will easily handle that cam. I ran them on a comp cams 306 .555 lift solid for years and...

Sorry trying to clean it. should be good now.

They are the rpm copies. My freinds talked me into it. Said I would pick up. I was very dissapointed. I bought them bare and added quality valves, springs and retainers and run of the mill 3 angle valve job.

I have a set of home ported 915s with 2.14-1.81 valves. Don't know what they flow, but lost e.t. when I bolted on stock pro comps. And their 40 lbs. lighter. It was alot of work. Once I ported the pro comps it was a different story.

The old solid v belts were much better. I break new belts a lot anymore. Doesn't matter what brand. The new ones with teeth are only about a 1/8 inch solid thickness.

I saw a test where 3in. exhaust picked up a good amount on a stock 440 6 pack. Of course it was a flowmaster add. Take it at what its worth. I was thinking like 30+ hp over stock exhaust. HP Mopar did a drag test on tti 2.5 and 3in. ex. And the 3in. was worth almost a tenth over the 2.5 on a...

I would do at least 2.5 pipe all the way out the back. 3in. would be better yet.

They also had instructions to externally balance a neutral balance flywheel.

Didn't mp used to have a bearing that pressed into the torque converter pilot hole in the crank. Then you can simply drill the crank oversized for input shaft pilot. No precision required.