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Oh, IIRC those marker light sockets for the front are pressed on to the pot metal housing. Royal PITA to remove.

70 Dart marker light bulbs - push in and twist to remove. Sounds like the only working ground for your lights was through the one working one, and when that one went you lost the rest of them. The directional sockets in the grill have their own ground wires that lead back to the radiator...

MSD has a pdf catalog online you can download that will show you how to wire just about any set up you can imagine. As far as the 4 pin ballast - a jumper wire between the female ends of the ballast connector that would connect across the top and that's it. The ballast is there to limit voltage...

Do you need the rev control? If you are 1/4 miling it a lot at the strip I'd consider it, especially with a 4 speed. Or if you can conceive of some current or future uses for it. $5 is not much. One possible downside is it's one more feature that could fail (KISS principle) in the future. If...

No pics for you, but the last time I dealt with one of those style regulators on a 69 B body the replacement was a solid state unit that fit underneath the stock can. It was on the firewall near where the wiring harness block goes through the firewall, on the two stamped raised channels in that...

...and for powering a timing light...

They're in a handy spot if mounted on the fenderwell. I use mine all the time to connect a remote starter switch to bump the motor over when adjusting the valves. Unless you want to wire up a separate button for that somewhere in the engine compartment...

3 5/8" ? That sounds like a standard tach size - seems I measured the outside of bezel opening and it looks like 2 5/8" - just figured a standard tach would not fit it. I may have to cannibalize a Sun Super Tach and see what fits...

Looking for something to pop in the center hole, maybe something a bit better than those Sun Mini Tachs. Would be cool if I could find a non-factory 6 grand tach with the same dial range as a stock one and stick a factory appearing tach decal face like the kind sold by Performance Graphics...ideas?

Firewall Bulkhead connector - #1 problem on old mopars. Too much juice going thru the heavy black and red, from the battery and the alternator, and they get moisture in them, corrode over time, cause resistance and heat. Trace the heavy black and red wires to the connectors, disconnect the...

Usually the coil gets a full 12 volts when the key is in the Start position - once it's in the Run position the voltage to the coil goes thru the ballast resistor and is reduced. The stock OE Chrysler stuff of the musclecar vintage operates as described.

Usually there's a thin ceramic cover over the backside to cover the element. But that's why the thing is made of ceramic, because that's what a resistor does - soaks up some of the voltage, thereby lowering the voltage to the coil, and converts it to heat. Measure the voltage to the coil with a...

After the 2nd or 3rd Ebay HEI Dizzy eats itself when it seizes on the shaft and rips the pickup assembly off its mounting screws you'll change your mind. DAMHIK

Trace the heavy red from the starter relay and the heavy black from the alternator back to the firewall connectors. Pull each connector off. I'd bet both are green. You can remove each by pushing on the side of the male connector to retract the hook that snaps it into place, remove the connector...

Start with the door switch. Remove and inspect for corrosion. Pretty common for them to be green after 40+ years. It's a funky set up - the contact point is a cone/taper design with a plunger that contacts with the door open. It's pretty thin so don't be surprised if it's corroded away. I...

Pull each wire out of the block and clean one by one. Push in the closed side with a small jewelers screw driver to bend back the locking tang. I use a dremel with a wire brush to clean. Grease, re-bend the tang and reinstall.

I've moved those wires off the bulkhead on a couple of cars, after the resistance caused those ports in the bulkhead connector to melt. And it won't cause a problem or issues with the way the ammeter works. I don't know why a lot of guys do away with the ammeter as the needle is only driven by...

Is there a switch on the lower end of the steering column involved with the reverse lights? I seem to recall such a thing on a 68 column, but not on a 69 column. Wondering if a 67 has the same deal as a 68.

I usually pull the harness and remove each female connector, wire brush eacg with a small dremel wire wheel , bend the catch tang back up, grease it and slide it back into place til I hear it snap into place. Good to go for many more miles. The heavy black from the alternator and heavy red from...

Set the curb idle screw first before the fast idle. Do you have a tach or a vacuum gauge? With the car warmed up, timing set correctly, crank the idle mixture screw in til either you see a drop in rpms or vacuum, then slowly go out again til you get the best vacuum reading or the highest rpm...

IIRC, a lot of the ground wires to the rad core area were for grounding things like the turn signals, horn and relay, etc. If I am not mistaken, in a DC current set up, power typically flows from NEGATIVE to POSITIVE, not the other way round. So your ground wires actually are the ones that...

If those E-bay Mopar HEI's are China made, and anything like the Ford ones I've seen, they are a time bomb. I know of two I took apart where the bushing seized and somehow the bottom pickup seized onto the shaft and ripped itself off the mounts and tore up the insides of the distributor. Bottom...

Last time I bought an MSD they included a jumper wire in the package to use across the ballast connections. It's no big deal either to make your own. One thing about an MSD though is you must wire it up correctly, particularly with the heavy positive and negative leads that supply the main...

MSD 6AL or MSD Street Fire and Blaster 2 coil - no ballast - done. And change the pickup in the distributor for cheap insurance.

No need to get a spring kit. Just disassemble both distributors and use the two light weight stock distributor springs in one of them. Just be prepared to tune the vac advance unit some and don't go too crazy on the timing. It will wake things up. But watch out for detonation and death...

Good grounds for the stop lights? There should be no relays involved. All that wiring usually runs inside the car too, so less chance of issues like under the hood. I'd trace back from the stop light bulb sockets and find the grounding mechanism. Some ground right to the metal housing, others...

Good firewall connections from the alternator back to the gauge, and from the battery to the other side of the gauge? No green connectors going thru the firewall? That's usually the issue. If it ain't that, I'd suspect the key switch.

No. If the bendix is engaging then the starter may not be spinning over. Might be a problem with the starter or maybe something to do with how the gear on the starter is trying to engage with the teeth on the converter or flywheel. I'd pull it and bench test it. Make sure it spins free on the...

I've seen a bunch of those Chinese HEI distributors eat the bottom bushing/bearing near the pick up assembly, seize up, and rip the pick up assembly right off its mounting screws.

I've even taken those contacts out, and in a pinch, filed 'em down to remove the burnt pits, and the same on the copper contact washer. Cleaned out and dirt or dust, carefully re-assemble (got to get the phenolic washers and spacers exactly right so as not to cause a short) and good to go. I did...