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I found this online, LCA pivot stud= 140ft.lbs. Strut rod rear = 105ft.lbs. front = 55ft.lbs. Tie rods = 40-45 ft.lbs. Lower ball joint to spindle = 120-125 ft.lbs. Idler arm thru bolt = 65ft.lbs. Upper ball joint to UCA = 125ft.lbs. min. Upper & lower ball joints to spindle = 65-75 ft.lbs.

Up here because I cant drive mine in the winter I daily drive it from the time I put it on the road till 1st snow but I am the exception to the rule. I only want to change parts one time if I can help it. I had 300,000 miles on my Corvette when I sold it a few years ago.

As a mechanic for a living I can say the non serviceable steering parts need replacement by 100,000 miles.

I dont know about the Moog having a problem. On my daily drivers that are Crown vics Moog is the only suspension parts that i can get to hold up without needing replaced. i drive almost 30 thousand hard miles a year and have never had to replace a Moog after I put it on any of them.

I used them when I put the 360 in mine. I had to cut 1 ear off on the right mount rear side and weld it on the front side. The left side I had to use a couple washers as shims on the 1 ear. I feel that way she is sitting correct for the K frame.

This is what the early ones look like.

Ok I am not familiar with those just the early ones for the 273

Are you using the stock 273 66 and down engine brackets. If you are that is the wrong rubber mount 67 and up. The early mount rubbers are twice as thick.

The coupler is there for when you get flex between the body and frame allowing it to move up and down even the very slightest.

At the very least you will need the manual shaft for your column or replace the whole column.

I have never really had trouble. I have used a breaker bar and sometimes a pipe on the handle for leverage.

You could spray some Deep Creep on them before pulling them.

You can rent the socket to change the ball joint at parts stores without pulling the arm.

Mom and dads Fury Sport was the same way. Sitting in the garage and heard a bang went out to see what it was and the car was down on the right side.

I have an xtra I would sell but shipping would kill it.

I would replace the rail because to me a patch is just going to make you keep chasing rust.

I have one in the barn along with the 8 inch rear axle for my 27 T when I get to it. I am not old enough to retire of get social security and am still breathing .lol

The length of the column shaft and the coupler is different.

The spindle is hardened that is the reason for discoloration. Do not paint from the foam you see out.

The 1/2 moon is on the backing plate to catch any grease that escapes and keep it off the brakes.

Silicone yes regular grease no. Oil products deteriorate rubber.

I use Lucas red and sticky on everything including all of my farm equipment. Be sure to get a graphite base when you buy grease. Parafin or wax base will push out and harden not helping you at all.

I would replace it with a good used rail. After done no one would know the difference.

I think you may need to loop the lines together at the box for it to work correctly.

You will be happy with a monroe shock for the type of use you do with your car.

A creaking sound when you move the suspension is most always a ball joint. They will creak but may not have any play.

That frame rail it attaches to looks pretty thin also.

I have good complete front rails that fit the early a body. What year is your car and where are you. Maybe we can work out a full rail at a fair price for you.

Dont forget when you do this it also moves the driveshaft back.